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Third Stone From The Sun
5.11a,
Trad, 485 ft (147 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
FA: Richard Harrison, Steve Miller, Jay Smith, 1977.
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> W Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap
Details
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Climb a huge right facing flake to the right of "Vanishing Point" for one long 5.10 pitch to just below a a 10ft roof. Climb the wide crack through the roof passing three distinct chock stones. Above the roof, walk left then climb to the bowl of "Craven Image", or head right and scramble up sandy slopes to the top.
Protection
Pro to 4".
Denver, CO
Off the Grid…
Pitch two is the business. Instead of going through the wide roof, just to the right is another option over the roof. Mostly easy, it does have a burly hard flaring hand jam move or three to some very ungraceful thrutching in a short flaring corner. Probably about .11+
If going the Offwidth way, you'll find the first chockstone loose but solidly wedged, meaning it's loose but won't fall out. The second chockstone is solid all around but the third rolls if pulled outward on. You have to undercling around the back side to keep in in there while pulling on it and you WILL need to pull on it. This roof kinda reminds me of the Harding Slot on Astroman, zero feet, bad hands, totally overhanging... I almost yacked! Once you somehow manage to Houdini your upper half high enough with no holds, armbars, or anything, you'll be able to contort your body (theoretically) into a pretzel allowing you to get your feet up high enough to touch something useful. Your foot friction is critical at this point as you scum your ass up and reach for an actual hold. From there, it's the most difficult 5.2 jug haul of your life to the ledge where you will probably collapse... Belayer, please allow your leader an extra 10min for setting up anchor, you'll find out why soon enough. This offwidth roof in comparison to other offwidths of the grade is just a tad sandbagged. Probably more like .11a but not much harder. Jul 25, 2010