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Steppin' Stone
5.11b,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.6 from 37
votes
FA: E. Barrett, G. Connor, Dave Stam, 1978. FFA: Dick Richardson and friends, 1979.
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Phantom Spires
> Upper Spire
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website.
fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
Start in a prominent, left facing, corner, right of "Fear of Flying". Climb up this corner, undercling left at a small roof, continue up, undercling left at a big roof (5.11a) to a belay with two bolts.
Continue up face.
Protection
Pro to 3".
[Hide Photo] Mike moves toward the crux on a beautiful spring day.
Sacramento, CA
Sacramento, CA
Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA Oct 24, 2008
CA
Bishop, CA
Truckee, CA
I wondered: has someone led the first pitch without cams? The first ascent being in the late 70's, I imagine they have? That seems truly incredible, I'd love to hear stories of those early ascents. Personally, I placed 4 pieces under the roof, and couldn't imagine futzing with anything but cams there...
The lower stemming section was also quite memorable, and lots of fun - hard moves are followed by decent rests in the lower part.
Second pitch - nothing too scary but definitely some thin slab moves needed in a couple of sections to connect the knobs. Trickier and more sustained than it looks from below, I found that pitch much less straightforward and in a way, harder.
Altogether these two pitches combine into one sweet and memorable line! Apr 29, 2013
Salt Lake City, UT
Colorado
I don't think that most people consider the ledge to be 'off'. In fact, I think most folks probably regroup there and try to reach over and stuff some pro in before casting off into the undercling. Such a good route. Nov 6, 2013
San Francisco, CA
Colorado