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Routes in (uu) Easy's Playhouse

Big Boss Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boys in the Hood S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bugging Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Out of Madras S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thug Life S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,474 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The second easiest route in the playhouse. Begin on stack of rocks to good incut holds. Follow up a series of goods jugs to an interesting cross move. Clip the 3rd bolt and one 5.10 await you and your redpoint attempt.
Recently (Oct 2005) the first bolt on this line blew out. However, the second can be stick clipped.

Location

First route to the left of the 11d

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt rap anchor

Photos

The first two bolts are now out of the rock, making the crux go on only one bolt. This is frustrating because it pulls the belayer into the climber for a possibly injurious fall. No way its 12c, I assumed it was 12a and that seemed about right. Apr 24, 2015
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12a/b
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12a/b
not quite sure why this gets the same rating as straight outta madras in the book. MUCH easier. Also the book mentions a 12- crux on the traverse in from the right which seems incorrect. pretty much super steep huge jugs to a v4/5 move then more super steep huge jugs. Also, the first bolt is about halfway out of the rock! Oct 9, 2012
jbrown2 Brown
Bend, Oregon
5.12
jbrown2 Brown   Bend, Oregon
5.12
Not sure if this is a 12c or not. It is very diffrent from other things at smith yet it is very physical. The traverse in saps soe energy. I guess it all depends where you start. Id say a good solid mid twelve. Jul 11, 2011
Corey McCarthy
Redmond, OR
  5.12b
Corey McCarthy   Redmond, OR
  5.12b
As mentioned in the description the original first bolt is gone. What is now the first bolt is extremely loose and probably suspect. Its possible to clip the second bolt before you get to the business or just stick clip it. Either way I would be wary of falling on the first. Mar 21, 2011
mark d  
"This beginning sequence goes at V10 and brings the full route to 13d/14a."

where did you get this information from? Oct 19, 2006