Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Charles Cole & Randy Vogel 1/85
Page Views: 665 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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This route is a bit serious for the 5.9 climber but well worth climbing if in the area. The start is hairy with little pro and extremely thin flakes for holds. Just after the start the pro comes around and the climbing is stiff at the grade but rewarding. The crux is just before the midway point up the left facing flake forcing the climber to smear left onto the face while working blind but positive jams upward. The top of the flake section of the climb can be protected with small cams in a solid hoizonal crack that traverses to the right facing Rope Opera. After that crack the flake get extremely thin again and scary. I was looking forward to lassoing the top flakes for pro, only to find that they could barely hold body weight. I choose not to lead the 60' of unprotected face above due to this and lowered very gingerly off the slung flakes with the hoizonal below for back up. We climbed "As the Crags Turn" after than and were able to lower down the route for my second to climb the entire route and clean. He decribed the face climbing as easy 5.6ish off the flake which joins a right moving dike past bolt anchors for "One Move Leads to Another".


The route is easily identified once you find the Cornerstone out of the Wonderland Wash. There is a large Yucca tree at the start of the route that you'll need to step through to gain access to the route.


Double cams from #2 Camalot down. Double length slings are good for a couple of tie-offs. There is no fixed anchors on top but one could utilize (we didn't) the anchors you'll pass on the summit dike for "One Move Leads to Another".


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