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Roofer Madness
5.10c,
Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 8
votes
FA: Jay Smith, Rick Sumner, 1977.
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Central Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap
Details
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Start 30' left of the gully of the right side of Eagle Buttress.
Climb past a roof and 50' of 5.10c jamming to a scooped overhang and belay.
Pass the overhang then step left to a long 5.10b jamcrack. When possible, step left to a corner and follow it to the Main Ledge.
Follow one of the "Eagle Buttress" routes to the top.
Protection
Pro to 2".
![1st pitch of roofers madness. The route traverses under the roof and into the corner. It ends at an alcove 70ft up. The anchor is 2 pitons and a fixed nut with chord and a rappel ring. You can TR the pitch by climbing Eagle Buttress Right.]()
[Hide Photo] 1st pitch of roofers madness. The route traverses under the roof and into the corner. It ends at an alcove 70ft up. The anchor is 2 pitons and a fixed nut with chord and a rappel ring. You can TR t…
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Placerville, CA