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Roofer Madness

5.10c, Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
FA: Jay Smith, Rick Sumner, 1977.
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > Central Wall
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Description

Start 30' left of the gully of the right side of Eagle Buttress.
Climb past a roof and 50' of 5.10c jamming to a scooped overhang and belay.
Pass the overhang then step left to a long 5.10b jamcrack. When possible, step left to a corner and follow it to the Main Ledge.
Follow one of the "Eagle Buttress" routes to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1st pitch of roofers madness. The route traverses under the roof and into the corner. It ends at an alcove 70ft up. The anchor is 2 pitons and a fixed nut with chord and a rappel ring. You can TR the pitch by climbing Eagle Buttress Right.
[Hide Photo] 1st pitch of roofers madness. The route traverses under the roof and into the corner. It ends at an alcove 70ft up. The anchor is 2 pitons and a fixed nut with chord and a rappel ring. You can TR t…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aidan Maguire
Placerville, CA
[Hide Comment] Do both pitches as one 180 foot long and spectacular pitch that combined make it about 11a and the best single pitch around that grade at the leap Jan 7, 2018