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Routes in Northwest Face

Buying New Soul S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deodate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eschaton S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gorilla Cookies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Magilla Gorilla S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Opiate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulp What? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stylite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waste Of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Ron Kauk and Jim Orey, 1974.
Page Views: 761 total, 6/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

On the left side of the face, climb a 5.10b finger crack to a belay with a bolt.
Continue up 5.10a hands and a loose section to a belay.
A 5.9 chimney squeezes down to 5.10a offwidth. Belay at the top.
Climb class 4 to the summit.

Protection

Pro to 3.5".

Photos

The route starts off a shoulder above and left of the base.
Pitch 1 is a tough boulder problem and like Russ said, gear clogs jams
and catches the rope. It is best to belay 10-15 feet
above the crux roof and arrrange a belay allowing belayer to see entire route.
The rest of the belays and climbing is tough but straightforward.
The last pitch is not 4th class. The route is a great old climb with
Beautiful exposure over the river.
Double rack to 3.5 is perfect.
The mixed sport climbs at the base are really good and make for a
full day. In particular a 5.11 fingery flake that doesn't seem too tough
After the chimney pitch of the sermon. Apr 12, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
hardest move just off the ground, better to warm up.
double standard rack + #4.
Linking p1 and 2 make all your belay comfortable Oct 29, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Link the first two pitches and belay at the alcove in the chimney, below the 10a flare. The belay takes pro from 1.5" to 4.5". If you extend your gear, rope drag should not be an issue. Bring extra gear from 1-4" if you want to sew it up.

This climb features excellent crack jamming up wildly overhanging rock. It is the best way to the top of Pulpit Rock and is an absolute must do for any 5.10 Valley climber. The "loose section" after the hands on P2 (or top of P1 if you link them) I found is not actually that loose, and I'm a total puss when it comes to bad rock. Great rock in general. Oct 5, 2012
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
While leading this in 2005 didn't like the established first belay so kept going to a hanging belay off of gear. Oct 29, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Blitzo, you ever done that thing?? The one bolt in the topo is probably off route and is a 1/4" rusted mess down low in the corner to the right of the direct crack line. The belay at the top of the first pitch is 2 rusted 1/4" bolts. Not very inspiring. Going over a small roof at the start is fairly hard and the pro has a way of getting right in the locks you want to use. The rest of the first pitch is mostly hands and sorta burly. We only did the first pitch (9/07) and then left you scavengers some booty gear at the anchor. The poison oak was very minimal and was not an issue on the approach. Sep 11, 2007