Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: (TR) Ray Jardine and John Lakey, April 1976, FFA (Lead) Mark Hudon, May 1978
Page Views: 23,851 total · 157/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


"The Phoenix" sits high on the wall, west of Cascade Falls.
This awesome crack is the first 5.13a recorded.


From the west side of Tamarack Creek Bridge, 2 miles west of Hwy 120/140 junction. Walk down to a flat area, cross a stream and continue to the brink of the cliff, rappel to the base of the crack.


Small to 2.25".
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
It also has some interesting looking piton-scar chipped holds. Apr 2, 2007
m-earle   USA
True, the chipped/beat-out pinscar pockets are a shame. the route would be quite a bit harder without them. Apr 10, 2009
They're so nice and smooth for your fingers, though!
Also, ants can sometimes provide a miserable experience at the belay 'stance', as can failing to bring a belay seat of some sort. Apr 18, 2009
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
Supertopo thread, including some great photos of the second ascent
supertopo.com/climbers-foru… Mar 17, 2011
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Ray Jardine purposely chipped holds to make the first free ascent, it just is not discussed often. Also, Jerry Moffatt was the first person to flash The Phoenix in 1984. This was at the height of his training for and traveling to hard cracks around the world, before he took up sport climbing. Apr 8, 2013
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
It's odd this page has a pic of Ray Jardine on the FA (1977) but then reports Mark Hudon as doing the FA a year later. Jan 18, 2014
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Didn't Mark Hudon do the second ascent, not first? Jan 19, 2014
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
I believe Jardine yoyo'ed it or hung dog it and claimed the FA? Hudon led it without cams placing all gear on lead, and partially dislocated his shoulder on the ascent. Feb 1, 2014