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Routes in Punk Rock

A Guide's Portion of Vino (A Tribute to Will Stanhope) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bits and Pieces S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jonny Rotten S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Never Mind the Bollocks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sex Pistol S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Keith Ainsworth, Mary Riedmiller
Page Views: 702 total, 5/month
Shared By: Keith Ainsworth on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Sex Pistol, is the middle line on Punk Rock and has two 5.12 cruxes. The first 5.12 crux is traversing left through bulges past bolt 5 with a good rest under the roof. Climbing above the roof is a hard 11+ move, but now you encountered more 12 climbing up the red groove on the face for some very thin, elegant moves. Escape left out the groove at bolt 10, then up and back right passing two more bolts for a 5.10 airy finish to the anchors. Many people miss the second and best part of the route after taking the roof by escaping to the arete on the left and following it to the anchors (5.10). People who take this escape call the route 5.12a, but miss the 5.12 climbing found by going up the red groove.

Protection

14 quickdraws + a long sling for under the roof.

Photos

Greg Miller
  5.11
Greg Miller  
  5.11
No way this thing is 5.12; unless you climb it very contrivedly if that's a word. Pulling over the roof is maybe the crux, but there is a huge layback pinch the whole way up the pegmatite.
A good example of bolts trying to force you to climb harder ground. Luckily the natural line follows arms reach of the bolts the whole way. Oct 17, 2015
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
5.12a/b
Still some crumbly stuff here and there, but cleaning more with each passing ascent. Using the crystal flake in the upper part seemed to make a lot more sense to me. Mar 19, 2012