To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets
5.9,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 59
votes
FA: J. Visser, M. Kindred
Utah
> Southwest Utah
> Saint George
> Snow Canyon SP
> Island In The Sky
> Indian Wall
Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
Originally climbed as two pitches, but can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.
P1 Starts on a shelf a few feet above the valley floor and climbs a right-facing crack along a large flake. A couple of face moves are helpful where the crack closes down. The angle is pretty relaxed so liebacking is not at all strenuous.
P2 Not to be missed and makes the climb a much more exciting outing. From the top of the first pitch the second pitch moves over a few face moves that are more mental than physical and are protected by drilled angles.
Location
This route is 20 to 30 feet to the right of the main Indian Wall area. It starts on a stepped shelf and the crack/flake angles slightly right. (The left-facing crack that curves to the left at the right side of the Indian Wall isn't it - go a bit farther right).
Protection
Medium and large nuts and medium cams (#2 and #3 Camalot C4s). There is a hanger-and-chain anchor with a quicklink at the top.
![Alexis Crellin moving into the P2 crux (which seemed very thin for 5.9, maybe some holds have broken?)]()
[Hide Photo] Alexis Crellin moving into the P2 crux (which seemed very thin for 5.9, maybe some holds have broken?)
![Ethan Blanchard having fun with the nut tool.]()
[Hide Photo] Ethan Blanchard having fun with the nut tool.
![Gwen Blanchard two-thirds of the way up the first pitch.]()
[Hide Photo] Gwen Blanchard two-thirds of the way up the first pitch.
![Perin Blanchard about a third of the way up the first pitch.]()
[Hide Photo] Perin Blanchard about a third of the way up the first pitch.
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Salt Lake City, UT
Kernville, CA
st. george utah
Salt Lake City, UT
Millcreek, UT
I will not be back to Snow Canyon for a while, so if someone wants to go replace the left bolt of the top anchor, please do, it's in bad condition!
Around the second bolt on P2 the crux seems more difficult than 5.9 (my guess is a hold or two have broken/shrunk). The crux seemed like a single thin/strong 5.10b move. But, the rest of the climb all felt easier than 5.9. Jan 5, 2016
Golden, CO
0.3-0.5 and nuts useful for the bottom of the first pitch. My initial placements were a little blind reaching from the face. Nov 20, 2017
Boulder, CO
Some descent beta: Hike north up the gulley. When you encounter a treed ledge alcove, look west and you'll find a rap station. 2 raps get you down on a 60M. Apr 15, 2019
St. George