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Routes in Indian Wall

Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kindred Spirits S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pierced Ear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raindance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Visser, M. Kindred
Page Views: 2,769 total, 20/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Originally climbed as two pitches, but can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

P1 Starts on a shelf a few feet above the valley floor and climbs a right-facing crack along a large flake. A couple of face moves are helpful where the crack closes down. The angle is pretty relaxed so liebacking is not at all strenuous.

P2 Not to be missed and makes the climb a much more exciting outing. From the top of the first pitch the second pitch moves over a few face moves that are more mental than physical and are protected by drilled angles.

Location

This route is 20 to 30 feet to the right of the main Indian Wall area. It starts on a stepped shelf and the crack/flake angles slightly right. (The left-facing crack that curves to the left at the right side of the Indian Wall isn't it - go a bit farther right).

Protection

Medium and large nuts and medium cams (#2 and #3 Camalot C4s). There is a hanger-and-chain anchor with a quicklink at the top.
I'm guessing something broke off the second pitch. Techy and thin just above the first bolt. I'm fairly short though.

0.3-0.5 and nuts useful for the bottom of the first pitch. My initial placements were a little blind reaching from the face. Nov 20, 2017
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
 
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
 
I recommend just linking both pitches (easily done with a 60m rope) using slings on any pieces around the end of P1. Plan to rap from the top because the anchor is absolutely terrible.

I will not be back to Snow Canyon for a while, so if someone wants to go replace the left bolt of the top anchor, please do, it's in bad condition!

Around the second bolt on P2 the crux seems more difficult than 5.9 (my guess is a hold or two have broken/shrunk). The crux seemed like a single thin/strong 5.10b move. But, the rest of the climb all felt easier than 5.9. Jan 5, 2016
Mike C.
Salt Lake City, UT
Mike C.   Salt Lake City, UT
There are no chains at the top of the second ptich, just two bolts next to each other that are spinners, and one bolt that is very far away from the other bolts. Very fun second pitch! Feb 17, 2013
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.9
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.9
We linked the two pitches together easily. would recommend doing that. fun variation up top. however there is alot of rope drag and pulling the rope proved difficult. We ended up hiking a few feet north of the route and the rope pulled much easier Jan 17, 2013
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9
Agreed.....don't miss the 2nd pitch. As a 80' climb, its' easily one pitch, checking in at 5.9 (might want to change the rating to that vice 5.7). The first pitch was fun too. Oct 17, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Just combine the two pitches to make one great climb. The crack is really good! Placed a little of everything up to #4 cam. Then skip the anchor and make one really tough 5.9 move over the little roof and then finish with some cool pockets. Two bolts protect the upper half (p2). Chains to rap. Nov 30, 2009
I did this climb on a trip to the area a 2 years ago. The second pitch is not to be missed and makes the climb a much more exciting outing. From the top of the first pitch the second pitch moves over a few face moves that I remember being more mental than physical and were protected by drilled angles. We linked the first and second pitch with a 60m rope, no problem.... would recommend giving it a go.... Dec 20, 2008