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Routes in Motherlode Rock - West Face

Funkadelia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Day for a Hangin' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highgrader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of The Law S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Quinn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Panning for Gold S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reach for the Sky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskeroo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, June 2000
Page Views: 2,698 total, 20/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A vertical face leads to a lower angled section below a slightly reachy roof move (crux), and finishes with some enjoyable face moves to the anchor.

Location

Just left of the major break between the right and left parts of the cliff. A small pine is located just above the "roof" portion of the route.

Protection

6 bolts, sport anchor
Sean Haynes
  5.11-
Sean Haynes  
  5.11-
This should be your first 5.11 if you want to break into the grade. Super fun route and well protected. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid catastrophe. May 22, 2017
Coon  
Great climb. Felt soft using only the rail on the roof to bump to the money ledge above the bolt (2 people after me couldn't repeat that and used an easier side crimp off left). Very fun and felt secure despite the ledge below you. Sep 11, 2016
Jeff Edge  
 
Going straight up the bolt line is a lot of fun and definitely no harder than 11a, if the undercling/balance hold (at the bottom of the first jug rail off the ledge) feels too far away try re-positioning your feet, you'd be amazed how much farther you can stand up down there. Super fun crux. Nov 29, 2014
johnnydanger
California
  5.11a
johnnydanger   California
  5.11a
Steep climbing on good holds. Really enjoyed this climb. I'm 5'6 and couldn't go to the jug from the left. If I had to dyno to it, it would be more more like 11c. I went to the right and traversed left to the jugs and had no problems. Hardest part of the climb was clipping the bolt above the crux. The rest of the climbing was mellow. Its hard 5.10 or soft 5.11. I love this type of climbing and it was an easy onsight for me. Oct 7, 2013
I know who broke the hold and even have pictures Jun 10, 2013
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Since the hold broke the route is even better!
Same rating, 11a. I am not giving any beta, but am not talking about the detour to the right, nor the way Cory describes. Jul 9, 2012
Cory Richardson
Roosevelt, AZ
  5.11a
Cory Richardson   Roosevelt, AZ
  5.11a
Being 6' tall, I was able to use a reachy right hand undercling and then power straight up over the roof above the bolt with a good left hand. I'd say it went at 5.11a for me, but my moves are not possible for anyone under 5' 11''. I am told the variation to the right is quite fun, possible for everyone, and goes at 5.10c. May 10, 2012
steple
  5.10d
steple  
  5.10d
Lower part is technical, upper part is overhanging on good holds. If the ledge in the middle wasn't there, I'd give it 4 stars.

I was told a hold broke left of the first bolt above the ledge. One could see where it used to be, and little crimp is all that remains. Without this hold, grade would be more like 5.11c. I disagree, once can just walk right on the ledge, go up, then traverse back left along the horizontal crack. I think it's more like 5.10d. Jul 6, 2011