Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Blade of Damascus

5.11a, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
FA: Manuel R, Mike K
Arizona > Central Arizona > Stewart Pocket > Stewart Peak

Description

A great route up a dike on Stewart Peak. Scramble onto boulder at the base of the dike. Clip first bolt while stemming off the boulder and the route. Move up on bolts to the crux up high. After unclipping the last bolt, the follower needs to have a good hold on top of the Arete to keep from falling sideways to the anchor. 

Protection

10ish bolts to a top anchor.

Location

Located on East Face of Stewart Peak. Route follows obvious dike to prominent arete. To descend, rap route from bolted anchor with a single 60m rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J Hickok
Bayfield, CO
[Hide Comment] I have never felt like it is cheating when a climber stems on or uses a rock feature that is reachable from a climb. It is illogical and contrived to avoid using a part of the rock that is obviously reachable or usable - unless you are bouldering and training to get stronger. The climbers who choose to use the handholds and footholds that are present are not cheating, they are simply using the rock features that make the route what it is independent of climber height.

Just my 2 cents. Aug 9, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] +1^^^^ Aug 13, 2012
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Hey Joel & Eric. I generally agree, however I mentioned not using the back wall b/c many people will not be able to reach it. Manny & I are on the tall side, with big wing/leg spans. Since many wouldn't be able to stem it seemed a bit like cheating to use it, and frankly IMHO it isn't nearly as much fun that way. Of course everyone is free to climb it however they want.

Also FWIW if one can always use whatever they want then several boulder problems (and all sit-starts) are no longer valid.

Give the route a try sometime. I would enjoy hearing what you think! If people still feel it is contrived then I am happy to change both the info and the rating to reflect that.

Cheers! Aug 13, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Border Patrol on Mt. Lemmon has the same issue. Fortunately the route grade doesn't change much if one stems behind them. Most people don't even notice the option and climb it without the stem.

Bouldering is a different animal as a lot of bouldering involves eliminates.

With routes I try not to dictate where people climb. You gave us the info so folks can do what they like. The rock gives us the holds be they where we want them or not. Sounds like a good route either way you do it. Aug 13, 2012
Forest Redlin
Arizona
 
[Hide Comment] The route is now bolted all the way through. Great climb. I agree with the bolting on the lower section. Now a great sport route with fascinating cubed rock at the top on the right of the arete. Thanks, Manny! Feb 28, 2021
Ben Albrecht
Chandler, AZ
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Like stated above, the feautures on this line are interesting and even has some jams if your looking for them. The rappel is also pretty sweet. Mar 7, 2021