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Routes in Lower Falls Amphitheatre

Annie's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear Huggy Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bear-Huggy Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blackout T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Guiding Light T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lightweight Guides T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nanbeeb T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Powerslave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ten Years After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rick Cashner, Don Reid, 1978.
Page Views: 2,649 total, 19/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Shortly after reaching the amphitheatre, one will notice a nice 80' corner. This is "Guiding Light". Climb the smooth crack in the corner to a two bolt anchor.
Rappel 80'.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10b/c
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10b/c
I agree with 10b/c. Sustained with decent rests and good pro, but small. Definite crux at the top of the thin crack. I used all my C3s on this one. Really fun climb!

Dec 3, 2013
Rob Dillon  
 
.10a is a bit of a sandbag, esp. compared to the one next door. Oct 1, 2012
seldoon
California
seldoon   California
Feels harder than 10a. It's a long layback reach at the crux. Dec 31, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10b/c
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10b/c
Great stems and liebacks in corner system with lots of good rests. Pretty stiff for .10a. Felt more like .10b/c at the crux, especially because their is a fixed cam in a crucial finger crack.

Good fun though. Oct 12, 2009
karcbr  
The continuation to the route Guiding Lights first two pitches, is called "Heavens Door" . This route continues up for three more pitches. When Walt Shipley and myself did this routes finish, we thought the hardest sections were probably around 11+ with an R rating. The climbing goes out and up the huge hanging flake on the 4th pitch - aptly named Heavens Door, cause if the thing rips, well....The old days hanging and climbing with Walt are sorely missed. Walt had a way of motivating me by just being around him. Climbing with him always felt like anything we attempted was possible. Yosemite will never be the same for me without him. Keith Reynolds Jun 2, 2008