[Hide Comment] MUST HAVE 2 ROPES TO TOP ROPE!!! Witnessed an accident last month... Nov 22, 2007

[Hide Comment] it is possible to top rope this route if your belayer hangs out in the tree about twenty feet up via some easy scrambling, you can do this with a 60M rope. Mar 2, 2008

[Hide Comment] A fun route, with an easy bottom half and interesting top portion with thin crack and balancy face moves. The 5.10 section is very short. May 4, 2009

[Hide Comment] If you only have one rope, don't rule this climb out. There are a few options to reach the ground:

1) Rap to the small tree, then once more to the ground. (Not recommended. The tree is small and a loner on this face and too many raps from it would mean it would die before long.)

2) From the tree at the top, rap a short distance then tension over to the tree at the top of Lieback, and Uncle Fanny's Pantry. You kind of have to claw your way over, but it works. Then rap to the ground.

3) Most people are unaware that from the tree at the top, you can walk off to the right. It gets thin but there are just enough edges to allow a step into Aunt Fanny's Pantry. Look for the chains at the top of Jacob's Latter(.10c) and the right slanting, splitter, finger crack Shomer Shabbat(.7). One 60m just reaches the ground. Apr 2, 2010

[Hide Comment] This climb is very well protected until the top. A nut or two can be slotted beneath the crux mini-roof. Save a few medium-sized cams for the mini-roof and crack above (I used a #3 Metolius cam in the roof and a #6 Metolius cam high in the crack above). From the fixed pin there is about 12' of 5.8 face to the next pro, but this can be easily bypassed by traversing about 20' left on a narrow (1-2") ledge (about 5.5 but no pro) to the top of Church Bowl Lieback. If taking the traverse option, scramble up to the next tree to belay so the follower can't pendulum into the corner of Church Bowl Lieback. Aug 2, 2010

[Hide Comment] FA: unknown, by 1982 Jan 21, 2012

[Hide Comment] I led this route in the mid 80's, and after the physical crux thin roof, the psychological crux was the very thin face above. There was a 1/4" bolt stud sticking out about an inch, and I slipped the wire
of a #1 Chouinard Stopper over the stud, and snugged it up. Put a long
sling on it and led past. The face above the roof is about 20' to the belay. Excellent climb !!!! Mar 3, 2012

[Hide Comment] Great climb that needs more ascents. Leaves, dirt collect in the crack detracting somewhat from the climbing. I thought the crux was pretty powerful over the bulge w/funky pin scar layback and smears for feet. Freaked out and hung and then pulled moves once I'd settled down. It's all there and pro is good. There is a pin and new bolt above the roof plus placements, but still heads up climbing after crux proper. Aug 2, 2012

[Hide Comment] The rappel aluminum rings are worn out badly. You can see multiple holes on inner side of rings. Please replace them if you can. Jul 7, 2014

[Hide Comment] The route was a bit dirty, but definitely fun. The super thin crack bulge move is quite cool. The rap rings were in decent shape when I climbed it.

Like everyone has said, you need two ropes to get to the ground. A 70m is not enough. You can definitely do an intermediate belay off a tree or downclimb some easy 5.6 terrain though. Oct 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] Lots of leaves in cracks. There was only one rap ring but it was in good shape. As a follower, I found the move over the bulge less tricky then the moves to and off the bolt. Dec 13, 2018

[Hide Comment] Good variety, best moderate at Church Bowl Jun 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] Only 1 rap ring. It is beginning to show grooves. Awesome climb, the moves off the bolt and piton are way easy compared to the thin crux roof. Probably my favorite at church bowl Feb 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] Piton is now gone above bolt. A BD z4 0.1 and/or 0 would work. After is about 15 ft slab to next crack which takes 0.3-0.5 or nuts. Oct 30, 2022

[Hide Comment] Safe lead. Great pro at the crux then pull the moves to the bolt. A couple secure moves on knobs brings you to the next gear. Once you pull the moves after the bolt, you can also shimmy on huge footholds around to the side if you don't want to go straight up. Apr 22, 2024