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The Sperm
5.9+,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.9 from 57
votes
FA: Brad Shaver and Bob Mitchell. FFA, Shaver and Grover Cable in 1976
N Carolina
> 1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
Description
This is the obvious left-to-right-angling crack on the slabby left end of the North Face. A cross between classic Looking Glass eyebrow-wandering and the more strenuous crack climbs to the right.
Begin by climbing up to, and then through, the fallopian chimney that marks the start. Thinking that this squeezer is 5.9 will only get you in trouble elsewhere. 5.8, 80'.
P2: 80 feet of right-leaning crack ends at a pair of bolts. This and the first pitch are easily combined; 5.9.
P3: Inobvious moves in the vicinity of a short vertical crack (5.9+) lead to easier ground up and left. Belay in a horizontal crack. 100'
P4: Standard 'Fields of Lichen Growing Wild'; eyebrow version. 5.7, 100'.
Protection
The usual stuff will suffice. Bring walkoff shoes.
[Hide Photo] Following the sweet handcrack pitch #2.
[Hide Photo] Adam Snedden following pitch two after leading the spicy chimney pitch.
[Hide Photo] Full view of the first pitch of The Sperm. Climber about to get squirmy in the chimney and climbers at the top of pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Coming up the chimney.
Arvada
Farmville, VA
London (sort of)
Lead the second pitch as well but my calves were burning from LK the day before... at about the half way point I was actually wishing that it was more vertical! Sep 8, 2010
Lander
Boone, NC
- two 60m ropes will do just fine if you want to save yourself a walk off*
Oct 18, 2011Asheville, NC
Also, the beta page should be changed- there aren't any bolts on the third pitch. Sep 15, 2013
Victor, MT
Came back in Feb of 2017 and it still looked wet, but decided to give it a go anyway.
P1: The opening (wide) bit of the chimney was QUITE challenging due to its soaked nature. The squeeze section of chimney didn't matter so much that it was wet, but was just a struggle overall. I don't believe the commenter who said P1 feels like 5.6. I suspect a troll. Even my partner who was following was screaming.
P2: I accidentally linked this with P1 because I'm terrible at judging distances, and spied the fixed anchor. Top of P1 has no fixed anchor. P2 crack was ALSO wet, although the face was dry. The face is quite slabby though, so you need the crack to keep steady most of the way. This felt more technically challenging than P1, but less physically strenuous. Could rap from top of P2 with two ropes.
P3: Best pitch of the route by far. Was the only dry pitch. Fun eyebrow moves go up and right, then eventually follow path of least resistance back left. Best belay is to the RIGHT of the big ledge where the fixed anchor used to be. As other comments have said, there is no longer any fixed anchor on top of P3. The horizontal a meter or so to the right of a fixed hex (which in turn is a meter or so to the right of the old anchor) will allow you to build a bomber anchor and put you in good position for the final pitch.
P4: Dry section of 15-20 feet leads to a runout (maybe another 15-20 feet) that culminates with some sketchy wet moves to finish off the climb. This is the worst protected pitch, although its also the easiest. Don't pass up any pro placements here, because you won't get much later on.
Descent Beta: When you top out P4 go to the obvious trail on the right. As of Feb 2017 the fixed slings and rings looked solid, but you need two ropes to get down rapping. We took the descent trail, which goes up from the slings maybe 20 yards, then connects with a trail going left and down the mountain. Trail doesn't seem to be used much so is quite overgrown, will involve crawling through some vegetation and sliding on your bum down leaf piles for quite a while.
Gear Beta: No need for anything bigger than a #3 C4 (can't even remember if I used one of those). First three pitches protect beautifully. Don't link first two pitches like I did, rope drag was terrible. Small stuff comes in handy for tight eyebrows.
Overall recommendation: wait until its dry (maybe summertime), otherwise not really worth it for the one quality pitch. Feb 13, 2017
Gramling, SC
Asheville, NC
Sean M’s beta is solid. I thought pitches 3 and 4 were great. The climbing on pitch three was fun and technical, interesting moves right off the belay and more sustained than I expected.
Pitch four was a little wandering, a little dirty, and a little wet but still worthy with a standard LG top out into some vegetation. I found the protection on the last pitch to be elusive but generally acceptable. Offsets cams and c3s were nice up there but I did place up to a #2 c4.
I cut the tat on the rappel tree and replaced it with some cord. We brought two ropes and got to the ground with two rappels using anchors on deep throat.
The view of the womb is incredible from this route, btw. Aug 31, 2021