Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Face Lower Buttress

Dedicated To The Game T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Down and Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight 714 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lakota S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Creatures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not-so Pro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Diet Coke for Fat Juice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tintin Does Doughnuts S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Warm Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Warm Up Too T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Nate & Pam Postma circa '91
Page Views: 797 total, 6/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb through the inital layback flake and face moves to the first of three roofs. The first 11a roof prepares you for the very awkward 11c second roof. Obvious moves to the right lead to the final 9+ roof. This route is quite unique to the Tower.

Location

Take the "Tintin/Lakota" gully approach. Upon reaching the main face, traverse left up the talus. The route begins immediatly under the big roof.

Protection

EXCELLENT PROTECTION! Quickdraws, Stoppers and Camalots to #3.

Description

Climb through the inital layback flake and face moves to the first of three roofs. The first 11a roof prepares you for the very awkward 11c second roof. Obvious moves to the right lead to the final 9+ roof. This route is quite unique to the Tower.

Location

Take the "Tintin/Lakota" gully approach. Upon reaching the main face, traverse left up the talus just past "bench rock". The route begins immediatly under the big roof.

Protection

Quickdraws, Stoppers and Camalots to #3.

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
Awesome route! At the first roof stay to the right. There is a bolt just above the lip of the roof that is hard to see. Sep 6, 2016
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
This route is probably the most varied on the tower, and is definitely the best route on the SW shoulder. Excellent bolted face climbing leads to a roof, with a short, overhanging, off-fingers crack above that. The first roof is supposedly 5.11a, but it doesn't feel any easier than the second roof to me. A single 70m rope will you get you back to the ground, but rope drag makes simply lowering off a bad idea. Jun 9, 2011