PRINT: Climb Yabo Roof, Los Angeles Basin

Yabo Roof

V2-3, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 40 votes
FA: John Yablonski
California > Los Angeles Basin > Stoney Point > Turlock

Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK Details

Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!

Description

An aptly named classic and Stoney's best V2. Cool moves up the edge of the boulder, then right and up to a great flake. Suck up and go for the knob, now that you're committed; pull up and squirm over the top.

There's a convoluted history:
Original name was "Yabo Roof" - Crowd Pleaser was the left start variation of Crystal Ball Mantle avoiding the jump and body english of that route, heading up the arete then traversing right onto the ball (as shown on the front cover of the original SP Guide). Crystal Ball Mantle was left of Pliers, now renamed Real Crystal Ball Mantle - don't know the original name of the current CBM - confused anyone?

Video here.

Location

NE arete of Turlock

Protection

None - boulder problem

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Geoff falls from the lip!

Andrew Harrold sending Yabo Roof on June 1st, 2019

Eric Murray on Crowd Pleaser.

Mike Newheart heads up the arete...

setting up the throw to throw for the lip

nick leprohon sending

Crowd Pleaser

Geoff Kinsey and the Outland crew

Rocket scientist Andy Stone hangs out on the knob.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

SAL
broomdigiddy

v2??? really?
Well I will call that a very proud v2.
i guess that makes crystal ball around v2 + :)
I would say its a solid v3. shorter folks may pull it at v4ish. Jan 14, 2008

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

V2+

Yes - the reach for the knob on the lip could be harder for short people. Jan 18, 2008

Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA

I went to Stoney last night and someone broke one of the holds off at thr top. Prolly from climbing too soon after the rain. Nov 19, 2010

Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA

V3 PG13

I noticed that yesterday too Tristan. Not only did a hold break... I'm pretty sure it's the bomber foot you rock over on. Whoever broke it probably took a good fall. I think the right hand knob looks like it might have lost a bit too.

On the bright side it's a whole new problem to send! Dec 5, 2010

Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA

V3 PG13

Resent today. Footwork is a bit more technical. Could use a brush. The knob has to be crowned and liebacked more. Maybe gets V3 now. Delicate. Dec 11, 2010

rorschah

I was there when it broke. It hadn't rained in a long time. A bunch of us were flailing on the last few moves, and a few experienced old hands were doing it to show us how to do it. One of the Old Sick Crew sent it, and then stopped and went back - he'd felt that foot quiver under him as he sent. It seemed really loose. There were like 25 climbers hanging around there, a lot of locals, a lot of Old Timers. There was a quick shouted consult between a bunch of the Old Timers about whether or not they should leave the foot there, about to go, or try to break it off. General agreement: if they left it shaky, somebody might hurt themselves *really* badly pretty soon. "Break it off" they said. "Or at least see how firm it is." He gave it a decent poke and the thing fell off.

There was a long quiet moment. Somebody said, "A piece of history, dude. A piece of history."
Then one of the kids who was showing us how to send it sent it again, and was like, "It's a little bit harder now. A little more balancy. But it's fine." Jan 17, 2011

Ariana

The big knob broke off.. Apr 5, 2011

dgill
San Diego, CA

V2 PG13

Aesthetic climbing, good movement, delicate, and very mental. Bring a clear head as blowing the mantle could be really bad with awkward fall potential. Make sure to have good spotters. I never saw it before the hold broke, but V2/V2+ seems reasonable (I'm biased a bit being on the taller side though). Overall great line. Sep 20, 2014