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Routes in Turlock

Bulge, The V1 5
Corner, The V2 5+
Crowd Pleaser V2+ 5+
Crowd Puker V5 6C
Crowd Teaser V0 4
Crystal Ball Mantel V4-5 6B+
Crystal Roof V5-6 6C+
Face Eliminate V0 4
Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Hoof and Mouth V1 5
North Face V0- 4-
North Flake V-easy 3
Pliers V2 5+
Potholes (Center Start) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Potholes (Left Start) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
Potholes (Right Start) TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3
Ramada V0 4
Silent Running TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Slime V1 5
Turlock Eliminate V0 4
Turlock Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
Untold Story TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: John Yablonski
Page Views: 7,364 total, 54/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An aptly named classic and Stoney's best V2. Cool moves up the edge of the boulder, then right and up to a great flake. Suck up and go for the knob, now that you're committed; pull up and squirm over the top.

There's a convoluted history:
Original name was "Yabo Roof" - Crowd Pleaser was the left start variation of Crystal Ball Mantle avoiding the jump and body english of that route, heading up the arete then traversing right onto the ball (as shown on the front cover of the original SP Guide). Crystal Ball Mantle was left of Pliers, now renamed Real Crystal Ball Mantle - don't know the original name of the current CBM - confused anyone?

Video here.

Location

NE arete of Turlock

Protection

None - boulder problem
dgill
San Diego, CA
  V2 PG13
dgill   San Diego, CA
  V2 PG13
Aesthetic climbing, good movement, delicate, and very mental. Bring a clear head as blowing the mantle could be really bad with awkward fall potential. Make sure to have good spotters. I never saw it before the hold broke, but V2/V2+ seems reasonable (I'm biased a bit being on the taller side though). Overall great line. Sep 20, 2014
Ariana  
The big knob broke off.. Apr 5, 2011
I was there when it broke. It hadn't rained in a long time. A bunch of us were flailing on the last few moves, and a few experienced old hands were doing it to show us how to do it. One of the Old Sick Crew sent it, and then stopped and went back - he'd felt that foot quiver under him as he sent. It seemed really loose. There were like 25 climbers hanging around there, a lot of locals, a lot of Old Timers. There was a quick shouted consult between a bunch of the Old Timers about whether or not they should leave the foot there, about to go, or try to break it off. General agreement: if they left it shaky, somebody might hurt themselves *really* badly pretty soon. "Break it off" they said. "Or at least see how firm it is." He gave it a decent poke and the thing fell off.

There was a long quiet moment. Somebody said, "A piece of history, dude. A piece of history."
Then one of the kids who was showing us how to send it sent it again, and was like, "It's a little bit harder now. A little more balancy. But it's fine." Jan 17, 2011
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
  V3 PG13
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
  V3 PG13
Resent today. Footwork is a bit more technical. Could use a brush. The knob has to be crowned and liebacked more. Maybe gets V3 now. Delicate. Dec 11, 2010
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
  V3 PG13
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
  V3 PG13
I noticed that yesterday too Tristan. Not only did a hold break... I'm pretty sure it's the bomber foot you rock over on. Whoever broke it probably took a good fall. I think the right hand knob looks like it might have lost a bit too.

On the bright side it's a whole new problem to send! Dec 5, 2010
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
I went to Stoney last night and someone broke one of the holds off at thr top. Prolly from climbing too soon after the rain. Nov 19, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Yes - the reach for the knob on the lip could be harder for short people. Jan 18, 2008
SAL
broomdigiddy
SAL   broomdigiddy
v2??? really?
Well I will call that a very proud v2.
i guess that makes crystal ball around v2 + :)
I would say its a solid v3. shorter folks may pull it at v4ish. Jan 14, 2008