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Routes in Homer and Marge

Chili Cook Off T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Harvey, Burns, Cook: 1997
Page Views: 1,573 total · 11/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a good introduction to manky, dirty desert towers. It is another very easy tower.

The route starts on the north side shoulder. Climb a ten foot, 6 inch wide crack up to a ledge, walk over to a (quarter inch bolt) bolt ladder. A few of the bolts are missing hangers so some rivet hangers or tie offs make this easier, but some wire nuts would probably work too. Climb about 5 bolts through some dirty rock onto a 5.5 ridge that takes you to the top.

Location

North side of the formation. The bolt ladder is easily visible.

Protection

A large cam for the 6 inch crack helps, but is not necessary. If you can't do this bouldery move, a shoulder stand would probably suffice. Bring some nuts or rivet hangers to sling the hangerless bolts, and quickdraws.
Patrick Betts
  5.5 C1
Patrick Betts  
  5.5 C1
All the bolts had hangers except the first one in Feb 2017. Makes for an easy romp up a tower. Feb 10, 2017
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
did it yesterday with drake. fun little must do tower. awesome photo op and most of the little statues are tibetan buddhist not hindi. however there are some "happy buddhas" around too. don't worry, be happy Mar 28, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I had to rescue Crisco from his lead :) Fun, easy tower. I thoroughly enjoyed it. The topo photograph here on MP is spot on regarding bolt and rivet placements. Feb 17, 2009
Did not like this one. As I was hanging on the last rivet, the dirt (It ain't really rock) kept crumbling all around me.
And what's with the hindu figurines on all these towers? Feb 2, 2009
Again, done in a blizzard.... Jun 21, 2007

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