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Routes in 9. Chimney Buttress

Abyss, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boy Howdy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushmaster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horizontal Tango, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In and Out T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poika TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roofs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seduction and Rejection TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
X T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Z T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
dance, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 64 total, 0/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up to a crack in the roof (hands/fists)and work left around the roof. Continue to the top using the crack and face holds.

Location

Locate a roof with a diagonal roof branching to the left. The route starts below the roof and traverses around it.

Protection

Standard top rope setup, placements a little scarce on top bring lots of webbing. Leadable but no pro for first 10 ft or so (5.6ish) until you reach the roof. Pro gets a little thin at the top as well. Can share a TR with Y.

Photos

Sam Smolnisky
Custer, SD
Sam Smolnisky   Custer, SD
Great lead if you have a little bit of large hand to fist sized gear. Fun to work through the bottome crux and move out left under the roof when you're on the sharp end. Oct 14, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Watch out for a good sized toprope swing if you blow the lower half. Multiple cruxes, the lower half involves awkward off-width traversing and the upper half is just strenuous. An interesting route overall. Watch out for birds (living, sometimes dead, and nests) in the chimney at the route's start. Oct 26, 2006