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Funky Finger Crack

5.10b, Trad,  Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Diane Fisher, Jon Frank (1984
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Leaning Tower
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description

Very exposed and scary start. Start on a large shelf jug and hand traversing from right to left as the rail gets smaller across a steep wall to the start of the crack (crux). Get your #1 TCU in and then start up the funky crack and follow the open/obtuse dihedral. More face climbing than crack.

When you reach the 1ft deep ledge, move left (or right) to step up and gain the huge belay ledge.

Protection

Many wired nuts and small cams from 0.2 to 2 inches (2 or 3 Camalot). def. need a #1 blue TCU, red X4, or equivalent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

FFC from below
[Hide Photo] FFC from below
small to med cams for the anchor.
[Hide Photo] small to med cams for the anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ty Hutchins
Norman, Oklahoma
  5.10a R
[Hide Comment] gear is small, holds did break but the climb was awesome!!! Dec 15, 2017
Tristan Bradford
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] After P1 which is funky finger crack, you can either do wild and crazy, love potion, or lycra sheath to escape up. Jan 15, 2020