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Funky Finger Crack
5.10b,
Trad,
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
FA: Diane Fisher, Jon Frank (1984
Oklahoma
> Wichita Mountai…
> Narrows
> Leaning Tower
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Very exposed and scary start. Start on a large shelf jug and hand traversing from right to left as the rail gets smaller across a steep wall to the start of the crack (crux). Get your #1 TCU in and then start up the funky crack and follow the open/obtuse dihedral. More face climbing than crack.
When you reach the 1ft deep ledge, move left (or right) to step up and gain the huge belay ledge.
Protection
Many wired nuts and small cams from 0.2 to 2 inches (2 or 3 Camalot). def. need a #1 blue TCU, red X4, or equivalent.
Norman, Oklahoma
Boulder, CO