Death by Departure
Avg: 2 from 1
> Wichita Mountai…
> Aerial Anticipation
Access is always an issue here.
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Not in the Guidebook! Fantastic exposure and good climbing on steep rock. This climb is getting better and better as it cleans up. First pitch will get your heart pounding (X rated - and somewhat dirty and loose) Climb up to 1st bolt, then head right on good holds. Just when you're starting to freak, work the #2 into a weird leaning, shallow crack (kinda questionable), and then head up and over the overhang (good holds). Get next bolt and then climb thin dihedral (crux) above bolt to big ledge. Several small to medium cams needed for belay) second pitch - (R rated and loose/dirty) head out right edge (super exposed) of big red overhang, find great pro in a horizontal crack. then head left and up. You should find a perfect spot for a yellow TCU in a little pillar about midway up the pitch. Aim for the top (right leaning big crack). Squeeze up the loose feeling/chimney thing that overhangs everything and sling a boulder for the belay at the top.
Start beneath ominous overhanging wall right as the trail meets the creek.
#2 camalot is handy, otherwise nuts and cams to 3 inches, two bolts.