Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Doug Klewin and Pat McNerthney, August 1978
Page Views: 24,206 total · 144/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.

P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)

P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)

P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)

P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)

P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)

P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)

Location

This route starts off the same ledge as Paddle Flake but about 40' or 50' to the right on a large boulder below some flakes.

Protection

Rack up to 4" with extra finger, hand and fist sizes.

Photos