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Routes in Crescent Spire

Energy Crisis T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
McTech Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McTech Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paddle Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paddle Flake Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surprisingly Subsevere T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Westside Story T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Woza Moya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Doug Klewin and Pat McNerthney, August 1978
Page Views: 17,698 total, 131/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


114 Opinions

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Description

This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.

P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)

P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)

P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)

P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)

P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)

P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)

Location

This route starts off the same ledge as Paddle Flake but about 40' or 50' to the right on a large boulder below some flakes.

Protection

Rack up to 4" with extra finger, hand and fist sizes.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Super fun route on great rock the entire way (well, the third pitch of scrambling isn't great but otherwise...) We climbed the hand crack roof on the first pitch as it looked way more appealing than the wide crack off to the left and I'd highly recommend this perfect hands roof variation.

Consider going a bit heavy on the finger-sized pieces for the second pitch if you want to sew it up pretty well. A #4 camalot would be useful a few times on the route so it's worth bringing if you have one.

The fifth pitch is a full 30 meters despite the book saying it's 20m and it's a bit tricky just below the anchors ledge.

We rapped the route with a single 60m rope using all bolt anchors. The single 60m rope worked but a couple of the raps are rope-stretchers so watch the ends. The anchors may be tough to spot but generally trend rappellers right as you descend and you'll find them. Aug 16, 2015
Cha Tate
Saint George, UT
 
Cha Tate   Saint George, UT
 
The route raps easily with a 70M rope. Beware the second rap. The bolt anchor is about 25 feet climbers right from a sling anchor. The sling anchor is very visible while rapping down but the bolt anchor is not until you are right on it. When you see the sling anchor, move right. Jul 30, 2015
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
great page! One suggestion: the FA was Pat McNerthney, not Pat McNurty.

Love the Bugs!!!!! Dec 5, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10-
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10-
Super fun short route to do in the bugs. The rock quality is amazing, sharp and splitter. The jams are fun through the little roofs and the protection is great. Head up there any enjoy it all the way to the top.

The scramble to the summit is easy and worth doing for the view.

The rappels are fairly straightforward. Use 2 ropes. Apr 25, 2012
Hans
Squamish, BC
  5.10-
Hans   Squamish, BC
  5.10-
I thought the crux was the finish on the first pitch. Dec 13, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This is definitely not an old-school 5.10. The crux protects very well and has tons of rests, so it feels easy. Dec 7, 2007