PRINT: Rock Climb Full Moon, Red River Gorge

Full Moon

5.7, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
FA: Tom Seibert, Ellen Seibert, Frank Becker, Larry Day, 1973
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Half Moon Rock

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Layback or OW the initial crack. Then face climb/layback the right leaning dihedral to a belay in the chimney.

Chimney or grovel (same thing right?) to the main summit on the right side or climb a crack in the left wall (5.8) and jump across the chimney when you're done.

I'm sure at one point in time this route was a definite classic. And while the physical substance of the climb has not changed, the route is usually coated in a layer of sand washed down from the ultra-eroded summit.

Location

Full Moon in on the north side of the rock, facing NW in a big dihedral on the west side of the main buttress on that face.

Hike in to the arch. Drop down and hike left around the rock until you find the obvious wide dihedral. Alternately, scramble on top of Half Moon Rock from the arch and rappel the route from a good sized tree at the top of the chimney.

Protection

A lot of big gear, take some medium cams for the middle section as well.

There is (still?) a good sized tree at the top of the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI

This route *was* a classic, back in the mid- & late- 1970s. By the mid-1980s it had mostly been forgotten, I think. Back in the 1970s it had a lot *less* moss growing on it! I think I was last out there about 4 years ago? Jun 20, 2008

Alex Mitchell
Boston, MA

Still a hidden classic in my opinion! Fun climbing from top to bottom! The bottom foot holds are a bit dirty but all the rock is solid. Bring big gear, at least one #6 and #5. Jul 30, 2012

Cassi Haggard

Don't let the description scare you off, this is still a super classic route. Moss is only there for the first few steps then the rock and protect is great. In the chimney we went up the crack on the left because a gigantic spider guarded the one on the right. It's crazy to me what they accomplished in the 70s with the gear they had. Take a BD 5 & 6. If you don't like walking them take 2. Jun 17, 2018

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY

5.8-

Classic, but loses a star from the absolutely disheartening amount of trash found scattered all along the base. Once you drop down from where the arch is, expect to walk 10-15 minutes to get around to the other side and look for the tall buttress. Did this with 1x6 and 2x5s. Take a second #6 if you don't like walking gear. There are some solid horizontals as well to save on the big stuff. No harder than 5.8- if you're paying attention to all your options. Belayed from the ledge at the base of the chimney (above the rap tree) that required some larger cams too (3, 4). We then moved the belay back into the chimney and climbed the fist crack on the left. Awesome.

Be prepared to walk across the the top a bit to a decent tree if you want a solid tree anchor. I did and the rope drag wasn't bad at all, and it was a much better option then the small trees immediately out of the crack. Overall a fantastic climb but quite depressing with all the garbage. We grabbed a few pieces of garbage and brought them out but you could fill a pickup truck with all the junk down there. Jun 16, 2019

Larry Day
Bozeman, MT

Half Moon rock was one of the most beautiful creations in the RRG. Absolutely stunning, with a grove of what looked like giant Bonzai trees on top. Then the stoned and drunken partiers discovered the place, got wasted, yelled YAHOO!!! interminably, chopped down the live trees to provide firewood for their miserable smokey fires, and occasionally rolled off the top in their sleeping bags in the dark of night. What a shame. I wish they'd started by falling off the top first, not last. Dec 3, 2023