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Routes in Half Moon Rock

Fallout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rockhouse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Seibert, Ellen Seibert, Frank Becker, Larry Day, 1973
Page Views: 618 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Layback or OW the initial crack. Then face climb/layback the right leaning dihedral to a belay in the chimney.

Chimney or grovel (same thing right?) to the main summit on the right side or climb a crack in the left wall (5.8) and jump across the chimney when you're done.

I'm sure at one point in time this route was a definite classic. And while the physical substance of the climb has not changed, the route is usually coated in a layer of sand washed down from the ultra-eroded summit.

Location

Full Moon in on the north side of the rock, facing NW in a big dihedral on the west side of the main buttress on that face.

Hike in to the arch. Drop down and hike left around the rock until you find the obvious wide dihedral. Alternately, scramble on top of Half Moon Rock from the arch and rappel the route from a good sized tree at the top of the chimney.

Protection

A lot of big gear, take some medium cams for the middle section as well.

There is (still?) a good sized tree at the top of the climb.

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Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
 
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
 
Still a hidden classic in my opinion! Fun climbing from top to bottom! The bottom foot holds are a bit dirty but all the rock is solid. Bring big gear, at least one #6 and #5. Jul 30, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
This route *was* a classic, back in the mid- & late- 1970s. By the mid-1980s it had mostly been forgotten, I think. Back in the 1970s it had a lot *less* moss growing on it! I think I was last out there about 4 years ago? Jun 20, 2008