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Routes in Purple Valley

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
A Way of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burden of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain One Eye S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee Talk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Come In Your Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flaring Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Into the Purple Valley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love Shack, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pebbly Poo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pleasant Surprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shish-kebab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Social Butterfly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 492 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Boulder up the initial face to the ledge and protect. Step up and clip the bolt and then pull the reachy crux.

Enjoy the face above to a great ledge where you can build an anchor to bring up the second, set up a TR or walk off right.

You can continue up a steep crack to the summit of the pinnacle, but few people do so. There are bolt anchors near the summit.

Location

From the terminus of the approach trail walk around the corner to the left. Begin on the main wall directly under the bolt.

Protection

Smaller cams and tri-cams. There is one bolt at the crux. Belay from gear in a horizontal on the big ledge or fomr bolts on the summit. You can scramble up to either anchor set up from the backside to top rope without leading.

Photos

Erik Kloeker
Cincinnati, Ohio
Erik Kloeker   Cincinnati, Ohio
This route was updated with 5-piece bolts and chains, July 2014. Slings and Cordalette are no longer necessary for a clean rope pull. It is also possible to scramble off the back of the boulder. Jan 24, 2015
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Wow, who knew there was a 6080ft bigwall in the middle of the gorge. Might want to change that eh. Sep 24, 2008
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Continue to the very top via a crack from the large ledge, this adds an exciting finish. As of 5/08, there is now a new cordelette(mine), backed up by 2 manky slings salvaged from previous crappy anchors that people made to get off the block. There's also 2 quick links to thread the rope through, the anchor bolts appear to be in good condition. Jun 3, 2008