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Routes in North Face
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Dancing Feet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Deception T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Deception Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knapsack Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Manic Depressive Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reds Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spam Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wave Rider T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,987 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 11, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This route starts on an easy slab just to the left of Deception. Belay just to the left of the first belay of Deception. From here, move out left on the slabs along a small roof and up to a series of three bolts that protect the crux slab moves. Now move into a right facing corner (decent pro) then up into a left facing corner where you need to set up a belay just under the 4 ft (mantle) roof. Now mantle the roof, work your way over some easy slab and over a few easy bulges to the top. Kinda runout but acceptable. Good practice for slab.
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