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Routes in Missing Bottle Buttress

Doug Thompson gets the First Ascent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trapped Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troubled Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Put The Purr In My Pussy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
XL Extra Large T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,499 total · 18/month
Shared By: Addict on Oct 11, 2006 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This route features some interesting varied climbing with a combination of face holds and cracks. Climb directly up the face staying between the 2 aretes then finish on the upper crack. Bolted anchor at top (shared with Troubled Waters to the left).

Location

Hike the Inner Wall trail up towards Toxic Shock. Just after the cave boulder, look for a faint trail heading up the gully to the right and towards the right end of the buttress. Scramble along the edge until you encounter the first ledge with the moss scraped off. Traverse across to the left here then up to reach the base.

Protection

1 set of cams to a #2 Camalot
1 set of nuts
60 meter rope

Photos

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The scary flake that's wanted to fall on your belayer from near the top of the climb has been reunited with Mother Earth and no longer a threat to climbers. The last bit of climbing is a tiny bit more difficult now, but much safer.

The Troubled Waters anchor to the left is the best to use for this climb. Nov 1, 2017
Ashley Weisman
Seattle, WA
 
Ashley Weisman   Seattle, WA
 
Very fun. One of the best 5.8s at Index. Stays cool on hot summer afternoons. Descent beta: best way to get down from the missing bottle buttress is to lower from the top of the climb to your pack/belay spot and then rappel ~15 feet back down to the trail. This avoids a mossy 5.4 slab or 5.6 block down climb. Aug 29, 2017
drsoc
  5.8
drsoc  
  5.8
I enjoyed having a #5 C4 Camalot for the beginning of the upper crack. Otherwise, I agree, gear to 2".
Thanks Doug for the shiny new anchors! Jun 21, 2015