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Routes in Missing Bottle Buttress

Doug Thompson gets the First Ascent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trapped Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troubled Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Put The Purr In My Pussy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
XL Extra Large T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,744 total, 13/month
Shared By: Addict on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This route climbs the obvious steep flared chimney with the handcrack in the back. Start by scrambling up to the base of the crack below the chimney, then lieback it to a rest at the base of the chimney. Now jam the perfect splitter handcrack for 40 feet, then scramble up to the bolt anchor.

This route doesn't see a lot of traffic, but is very good.

Location

Hike the Inner Wall trail up towards Toxic Shock. Just after the cave look for a faint trail heading up the gully to the right towards the right end of the Missing Bottle Buttress. Scramble along the edge until you encounter the first ledge with the moss scraped off. Traverse across to the left here then up to reach the base.

Protection

1 set of cams to a #3 camalot
an extra #2 is nice
60 meter rope

Photos

RodrigoB
  5.9
RodrigoB  
  5.9
Agreed, not hands until the top of the "hand crack." A #4 and #3 C4 were required to protect the crack. The first time I found it hard for 5.9. After a repeat it felt more reasonable for the grade. This route is also considerably cleaner now than when this description was written. One can approach the climb with some technical climbing from directly below the start of what would be the climb if you scrambled around from the left. While a bit more cleaning is in order, it's looking much better. Worth climbing if 5.9 or slightly harder is your limit. Apr 4, 2016
drsoc
  5.9
drsoc  
  5.9
IMO, this is not a hand crack unless you have BIG hands. #4 and #3 C4 Camalots most of the way getting narrower as you go.
Thanks, Doug, for the anchors! Jun 21, 2015
Douglas T  
 
The tat on the tree has been removed and a modern anchor installed. Mar 8, 2015