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Bedtime for Bonzo

5.6, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 547 votes
FA: G. Robinson, M Hackworth, 1983
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Fortress Wall
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description

A great route normally done as 2 short pitches. Climb a left-angling flake to a big ledge with a huge block on it. Belay here to avoid a bad line with your rope, even though you are not yet more than 50' up. Walk right to a second crack in the wall which ascends up and right on hand jams (crux) and horizontal holds through a steep section headed out right towards an arete. Finish on face moves to reach the top. Belay & rap from bolt anchors.

Location

Around to the far left of Fortress wall and around the left side of the amphitheatre, to the West face. Go along this face for perhaps 50 yards to reach a left-angling flake to a ledge- the beginning of Bedtime for Bonzo.

Protection

A standard light rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Awesome exposure on Bedtime for Bonzo!
[Hide Photo] Awesome exposure on Bedtime for Bonzo!
Top of the 2nd pitch.
[Hide Photo] Top of the 2nd pitch.
Andrew Baldwin stuck in the gap before the second pitch. Oliver Hill in background.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Baldwin stuck in the gap before the second pitch. Oliver Hill in background.
Bedtime for Bonzo at the west end of Tarr Ridge, posted with permission from Alan May.
[Hide Photo] Bedtime for Bonzo at the west end of Tarr Ridge, posted with permission from Alan May.
the start of the 1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] the start of the 1st pitch.
Viewed from below Out of My Way.
[Hide Photo] Viewed from below Out of My Way.
Randy Childers heads up the upper part of the upper pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo
[Hide Photo] Randy Childers heads up the upper part of the upper pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo
One of the first few moves, almost certainly not the intended beta
[Hide Photo] One of the first few moves, almost certainly not the intended beta
Bedtime for Bonzo, Red River Gorge
[Hide Photo] Bedtime for Bonzo, Red River Gorge
Baby Copperhead guarding the start of the 1st Pitch.
[Hide Photo] Baby Copperhead guarding the start of the 1st Pitch.
A rewarding view from the top
[Hide Photo] A rewarding view from the top
2nd pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo
[Hide Photo] 2nd pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This is a great route, I had a great time on it. Dec 2, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] A good route with good sections, but it always felt too wandering and the pitches were too short to call classic. The best part is the jamming on pitch #2 (all 20' of it, if that) out to the right of the ledge, as the position and rock are truly good. Feb 14, 2007
Adam Steel
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] This route was overhyped for me and has the same reputation among others I've talked to. It has a short section at the end that is striking, but it's so short you almost don't notice. I don't think it's the classic line everyone makes it out to be. Even so, the fact that it's a two pitch 5.6 in the Red makes for good multi-pitch practice for beginner climbers. Mar 7, 2007
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] cool finish, liked the exposure Nov 15, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Short pitches, but an excellent route with nice exposure. Save a #3 Camalot or equivalent for the angling crack on P2. Oct 27, 2008
Unboundquark
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route.

3 stars for the view from the top, the fun factor, and the novelty of the hallway area.

I felt if was a touch more difficult than many of the other 5.7's I've led at RRG so I gave it a "+".

Good pro. Oct 13, 2009
[Hide Comment] i put my wife on the first pitch of this thing as an easy first trad lead. she had difficulty and when I tried it I could see why. I think the guidebook rates the 1st pitch as a 5.4, and I would say it is stiff for the grade. Not to nit-pick such an easy route, just make sure you don't get in over your head. The crux is getting over the first little bulge. Nov 18, 2009
BCA
michigan
 
[Hide Comment] good route with nice exposure on the second pitch. i have climbed this twice, and the second time i did my first trad lead on the first pitch. it took pro easily, and has good stances. i like the little chimney doorway up to the second pitch, and the second pitch is a bit stiffer than a 5.6, in my opinion. one rap from the bolted anchors will do with rope to spare. this is a fun one. Jun 15, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, DE
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This route can get very snow-covered in winter. Aug 17, 2010
[Hide Comment] Fun route with short pitches, great pro (you will love your #3), and exposure. Jul 11, 2012
Dreez
 
[Hide Comment] We rapped with 70 meter rope no problem Jun 16, 2014
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
 
[Hide Comment] Made the mistake of doing it at the end of the day- tired and hands chewed up already made it hard to stick the jams towards the top. Still awesome, great exposure. Can't beat the view up top.


As of 3-23-15, 2 out of 3 bolts on the top have spinning hangars. Still rapped off fine (70m gets you down no problem). Mar 24, 2015
Jordan Kessler
Westerville, OH
 
[Hide Comment] Great fun route. 60M gets you down to the base of "The Turret 5.5" with a little rope to spare. Oct 19, 2015
Derek Ehrnschwender
Cambridge, MA
[Hide Comment] Pretty positive my partner and I drank the coldest beer to ever make it to the top of this route, thanks to the 30lb cooler we hauled up both pitches. Next time we'll do all our hauling from the rap anchors to avoid tree hangups. I found the start trickier than P2. Aug 27, 2017
Wesley Neill
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Very, very fun. The top pitch is so good that you will just wish it went forever. It ends quickly, and that is the only detractor from this route.

Having two #3's saved for the hand crack traverse will make it feel a little less exposed. I did it with one placed a little to far to the left of the traverse, which made the top out feel pretty spooky.

Also, The first 12 feet of climbing is thuggish 5.8 or easy 5.9. Nov 21, 2018
Matthew Jaggers
Red River Gorge
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely save a #3 for the top. Also, don't forget to protect the ledge traverse on P2 for your second. If you don't, there's about a 20' pendulum potential. Dec 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] Mostly a solid hand crack with great straight forward gear placements. First person video: youtu.be/fdz10eDtv9s Jan 9, 2019
Derrick Colberg
Louisville, KY
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The "Cheater tree" on the start is now gone, so the first two moves have added to the fun. Also the stones to help get to P-2 are also gone so add a boulder problem to scoot through the tight hall way. Again only adding to the fun. Feb 18, 2019
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Referring to the above. V2? Seriously? 5.11-??? Feb 20, 2019
Derrick Colberg
Louisville, KY
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I suppose we played a little knock out around the hallway and if you boulder up and around id call it a V2, I removed that, I can see the issue with that information. Not sure what 5.11-??? is referring to. May 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] stitched up the sketchy low crux. fun route. Oct 26, 2020
Andre Chiquito
Seneca Rocks, WV
[Hide Comment] To clear up the above boulder problem talk: To get through the tight hallway (Above is a picture of Andrew Baldwin "stuck" in it. The step up is roughly level with his shoes on his back), you now have to climb up on the face to Andrews right, then traverse through the slot. It's definitely not V2, I'd call it VB
I did this by hucking my pack and rope onto the ground on the other side of the big step, then traversing in, super easy!
I suppose you could find a V2 variation if you really, really wanted to, but it's pretty casual. Apr 14, 2021
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] This is a great route and a heavy sandbag - an old school 5.7+, where the + means you need to first find where the 5.7 moves are. Otherwise, you will sandbag yourself (as I did) in 5.8+ climbing. Funny that the guidebook still claims the start is 5.4. Having two BD #3 cams in the wide crack of P2 was really helpful to keep the finishing moves well-protected. Jun 2, 2021
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
[Hide Comment] To me the most memorable part of this route was the straight right traverse on P2 before the diagonal crack. I thought that was great fun. Sep 25, 2021
Parker May
Milwaukee, WI
5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I know everyone's risk assumption varies greatly, mine is typically lower than most. That being said, I did this in 3 pitches. The "4th class" traverse from the top of P1 to the start of P2 is rather uneasy so I pitched it out, making it 3 pitches. I would advise this for all newer parties as a fall from this traverse would result in grave injury to the leader. Feb 19, 2023
DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Parker, so as not to confuse others reading thing, the traverse from the 1st pitch anchors is not 4th class, but rather a mildly exposed walk to a not at all exposed body length slot/chimney. Followers can easily be belayed over to a safe stance while still on belay from the first pitch and do the walk and 4th class move unroped. Feb 20, 2023
Dan Chandler
Kentucky
[Hide Comment] I climbed this 5 times as a nervous new leader and found the traverse to be one of the least heady things I've done on gear. To me, B4B essentially is two single pitch routes where the anchors for the first route is a 15ish foot stroll down an enclosed sandstone hallway to get to belay for the second route. Yes, P1 anchors are over a ledge, but it's flat and wide enough for multiple parties to sleep if they wanted. Several YouTube videos show the traverse for the curious. Feb 28, 2023
[Hide Comment] HD POV video of the route: youtube.com/watch?v=Oz_u2LJ… Apr 16, 2023
Zachary Enright
Dahlonega, GA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Perfect first multipitch for the budding trad leader. Bring a double rack, sew that shit up, and take in the amazing exposure of the northern gorge. Hardest moves of the route are right off the deck, and the only reason I’d give this route 5.7, but you practically top rope it with the right placement. The second pitch is much much easier than it looks.

For the more experienced leader, this is a great rest day route. Bring a light rack and run up it and enjoy the views, last time I did it I only placed 2 pieces on the first and 3 on the second pitch. No doubles necessary. Get on it Dec 25, 2023