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Bedtime for Bonzo
5.6,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 547
votes
FA: G. Robinson, M Hackworth, 1983
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Fortress Wall
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r… Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A great route normally done as 2 short pitches. Climb a left-angling flake to a big ledge with a huge block on it. Belay here to avoid a bad line with your rope, even though you are not yet more than 50' up. Walk right to a second crack in the wall which ascends up and right on hand jams (crux) and horizontal holds through a steep section headed out right towards an arete. Finish on face moves to reach the top. Belay & rap from bolt anchors.
Location
Around to the far left of Fortress wall and around the left side of the amphitheatre, to the West face. Go along this face for perhaps 50 yards to reach a left-angling flake to a ledge- the beginning of Bedtime for Bonzo.
Protection
A standard light rack.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Baldwin stuck in the gap before the second pitch. Oliver Hill in background.
[Hide Photo] Bedtime for Bonzo at the west end of Tarr Ridge, posted with permission from Alan May.
[Hide Photo] Randy Childers heads up the upper part of the upper pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo
[Hide Photo] One of the first few moves, almost certainly not the intended beta
Fort Collins, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Salt Lake City
Portland, OR
Decatur, GA
3 stars for the view from the top, the fun factor, and the novelty of the hallway area.
I felt if was a touch more difficult than many of the other 5.7's I've led at RRG so I gave it a "+".
Good pro. Oct 13, 2009
michigan
Forchheim, DE
Oxford, OH
As of 3-23-15, 2 out of 3 bolts on the top have spinning hangars. Still rapped off fine (70m gets you down no problem). Mar 24, 2015
Westerville, OH
Cambridge, MA
Tucson, AZ
Having two #3's saved for the hand crack traverse will make it feel a little less exposed. I did it with one placed a little to far to the left of the traverse, which made the top out feel pretty spooky.
Also, The first 12 feet of climbing is thuggish 5.8 or easy 5.9. Nov 21, 2018
Red River Gorge
Louisville, KY
Around Boulder, CO
Louisville, KY
Seneca Rocks, WV
I did this by hucking my pack and rope onto the ground on the other side of the big step, then traversing in, super easy!
I suppose you could find a V2 variation if you really, really wanted to, but it's pretty casual. Apr 14, 2021
Binghamton, NY
Eagan, MN
Milwaukee, WI
Red River Gorge, KY
Kentucky
Dahlonega, GA
For the more experienced leader, this is a great rest day route. Bring a light rack and run up it and enjoy the views, last time I did it I only placed 2 pieces on the first and 3 on the second pitch. No doubles necessary. Get on it Dec 25, 2023