This route starts about 40 ft to the left of the Pillar and goes between a break in the canopy of two trees, then up the steep central face of the Pagoda. There are anchors at 100 ft but the route continues to the top and can easily be done in one pitch.
Pockets, crimps, mantles and route finding is the name of the game on this one. Going straight up is not always the easiest way to the next bolt. You can easily make this route much harder than the grade. The crux comes just off the belay anchors on the second pitch. A few moves later and you're back in the more moderate range.
The first pitch is 5.7 and can be top-roped from the anchors with a 60m rope. Though this route has been around for more than 15 years, it was just recently bolted in the summer of 2006 and could use a little traffic to clean it up.
Decend by rappelling the route (huge potential for getting your rope stuck)or make a short rap down the back side on chain anchors.
13 Quickdraws
Oakland, CA
It is a nice line up the face and was fun for my partner on top belay.
Watch out for poison oak at the start!
Don't throw your rope in the poison oak when rapping off the back! Mar 24, 2009
Off the Grid…
Pine Canyon is an place to find adventure, not contrived safety and a day of mindless climbing. It's a great place to become strong in mind, as well as strong in body.
Think of the place as a "great gift" to the bay area. Apr 12, 2009
Off the Grid…
Concord, CA
We did it in a single pitch with a 70m rope, & rapped off the chains on the back of the rock. Aug 8, 2016
I was climbing this route on Sunday November 13th and a foot long long hold I was holding onto completely fell off. I whipped 20 feet and slammed into my left heel. Broke my heel in 4 places and am now out of commission for 3 months.
Never climbing sandstone again! Only Yosemite Granite for me:) Nov 15, 2016
Emeryville, CA
With all that said.... it's a pretty great climb. You just have to climb it like a gecko: 4 on the floor in case any 1 hold should snap. Static and controlled!
Also ... be sure to bring stuff for a short rap off the top. Nov 11, 2019
San Francisco, CA
We ended up just scrambling around, which was a fun day. Sep 6, 2020
Bellingam, WA
San Jose, CA
Belay / rappel station at pitch 1 - so you can lower from there if you like; but it is fun to go up all the way to the top and lower on the back side. We did this as a multi-pitch. Belaying from pitch 1 is awkward and wasn't too comfortable; next time I would just go all the way to the top and belay from the top. Nov 1, 2020
San Jose, CA
Vallejo, CA
Agree with other comments that this is best done in one pitch and belaying from the top to clean. Feb 18, 2022
Off the Grid…
Tübingen, DE