This would be 3-star route if the "black hole" quality of the first 20 meters were not so powerful. But as it is, the beginning sucked the stars out of the top half. The crux of this climb up top is actually reasonably protected and on solid rock, but getting to it is pretty loose rock and is virtually unprotected.

Climb up the right side of the corner in the right facing dihedral- going further right will only make the rock worse and the pro non-existent. Continue up to low-angle rock and work to the right below the stunning crack above.

Go right of the crack onto a face hold and reach up to the gear in the lowest part of the crack. This is probably 5.9+, S. Get a hold up in the first pod of the roof and pull up into the roof on decent jams and holds to get more gear (5.10) then work your way up into the roof and through it. Footwork is key, as you can really take weight off your arms if you are vigilant to do so. Place 2-3" cams to the end of the crack, place a #4 Camalot and get onto the lip. (5.11) Pull the lip with style or awkward, whatever you find (I found one no-hands rest up there) and then onto the slab (5.11 again). Go up and right below a second roof and finish to the top, where you can scramble down to the east. Walk north 50 meters, then cut back west through a notch and gully to return to the base.