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Routes in Blackburn Rock

Horse and His Boy, The V1 5
Prince Caspian V0 4
Stranger Than Paradise T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Jason Haas, 2005
Page Views: 112 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the thin, low angle splitter finger (tips?) crack to a big move.

Location

A few hundred feet right of the main NW corner of the cliff under an airy rockhouse.

Rappel from a single bolt.

Protection

Thin gear.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
When this route first appeared on line, it had a designation of having been submitted by Chris Chaney. He's also the admin for the area on-line, so he must have switched the submission to your name. Don't know why. Oct 10, 2006
Oh, and for gear, ballnuts are key Oct 9, 2006
I did not actually submit this climb to the database as it indicates, but I did make a free ascent of the route in January of 2005. I do not have any information about others climbing it before me but I would believe it. Someone had installed a single bolt anchor before I began working the route and all the hardmen that I knew of at the time had given the route a go but never actually freed it. The information I was going on was based off of the late John Bronough, former guidebook author (Rest in piece buddy) who told me personally that no one had climbed the route cleanly. That's not to say that it hadn't been done, I have not been climbing in the Red for 20 years so maybe the old generation of hardmen had ticked it. As a side note, it is a short line that stays dry in the rain, but is very far from any other routes and does not have many good warm up routes near it. The top has a frustratingly low percentage move on it. Oct 9, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I wish I could say who it was, but my memory for casual conversations with people I barely know is limited to within less than 15 years. I talked to a guy at miguel's in the early 90's who, in the context of doing hard climbs at the gorge, clained to have done it. He was climbing other hard stuff, so it seemed likely enough. The Hackworth guide which we were all using at the time implied that the route had been done. If my 20-year-old memory of such is correct, Hackworth even gave the beta as a dyno to a hand-jam. So there was no reason to "Report" and ascent or make a big deal of it at that time.

Jason is my climbing partner and my friend. I am not trying to belittle his accomplishment, I'm just saying I think it has been done. Oct 9, 2006
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
According to a lot of local hardmen it had never seen a free ascent until Jason's. Oct 9, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
This climb was done in the 1980's. Oct 9, 2006