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Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.3 from 23
FA: Phil Bircheff and Steve Williams 1969. FFA Kevin Worrall and George Meyers 1973
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Cathedral Spire…
> Middle Cathedral Rock
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
This is a five pitch line left of Central Pillar of Frenzy. I have only tried the first pitch, which can be toproped after descending the rappels for Central Pillar. The first pitch is thin climbing up a clean dihedral, leading to a short section of off-width that is easier than it may look. The crux is obvious as the finger crack peters out, and you have to negotiate 20 feet of extremely strenuous stemming on glassy feet. Consider the use of the arete out right if you are tall. There are two pins in the crack, and you can get some small cams, but still a heady lead. The remaining four pitches look interesting, although I have not tried them.
Directly left of Central Pillar, and follows the final rappel pitch for that route.
Small gear (doubles) (offset Aliens, micro cams, lowe-balls) up to 3". Perhaps a #4 Camalot for the wide crack. Pitch one can be toproped from the rappel anchors with a 70 m rope (although you just barely reach the ground with rope stretch so be careful not to lower your partner off the end!)