Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll, 1993
Page Views: 1,866 total · 13/month
Shared By: NiClips on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Description

A pinchy vertical line with few rests. Straight up the slightly overhanging wall using crimpers and plenty of edging. Climb right of the overhang to finger pockets, then up to the chains.

Location

The first bolted route at the base of the 5.11 Wall, just right of Bandolier.

Protection

This is a sport route with 5 bolts. Dual chains on top.

Photos

Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Nice lead, the plus part of the grade comes at the end (crimpy) Oct 22, 2008
charris
 
charris  
 
Not sure when it happened, but there is now a fun 5.8 next to this on the right and there appear to be some easy slab climbs even further right. Both the 5.9 and 5.8 stay dry enough to climb even in heavy rain. Sep 26, 2011
Alexander L'Grand  
  5.9
There will be wet holds at the top in the spring, but you can avoid them. Apr 14, 2012
Matt Roberts
Columbus, OH
  5.9+
Matt Roberts   Columbus, OH
  5.9+
The first route to the immediate right is Dream of a Bee (5.8). The slab climb further right is Cordelia (5.8).

Wadcutter is a heady lead for a 5.9. Jun 3, 2012
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
New SS Wave Glue-ins on 9/20/2017 courtesy of a private donor. Old bolt holes were reused and the climb remains 'sporty' For those not comfortable at the grade, exercise caution given Wadcutter's true name... 'Gumby Killer'. Sep 20, 2017