Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: FA: Herb Swedlund, Penny Carr, 5/63 FFA: Frank Sacherer, Steve Roper, 5/63
Page Views: 26,503 total · 145/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

While it starts with a powerful, thin and technical finger crack, most of your time will be spent with the widening fist crack above. For those with small hands, the upper section will be off-width, but for those with larger hands, enjoy! The crux is right off the ground and pro is thin early on. Watch you ankles falling right off the ground: the base is littered with rocks.

Location

On the west side of El Cap, about 100 yards up the hill (left, facing the cliff) from the toe of the Southeast Buttress (start of The Nose).
Look for a small clearing at the base just to the left of a large dihedral with a gaping off-width crack ("Ahab" 5.10b). The climb starts up a thin finger crack, then widens on the otherwise blank face above

Protection

One or two small pieces for the beginning, and a bunch of big ones (#2-#5 Camalots) for the widening upper section.
nuts: 1 set thin-med.; cams: 1 ea 0.5"-4.5", extra 2.5"-3.5"

Two ropes to rappel. A single 80m barely reaches, too.

Photos