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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: Tim Wagner, 1994
Page Views: 873 total, 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A visionary route put up by Tim Wagner. This route starts to the right (north) of Tin Man. Start with heads, some fixed, some not, then clip some machine bolts. The rivets consist of machine bolts hammered in narrow holes, held in by the threads mushing in the rock (El Capitan-style).

After the rivets, climb/traverse left (west) via fixed heads, hooks, pins, etc. The route ends with hooking to a bolt, followed by a pendulum to the anchor (shared with Batman. This route would be extremely hard if the fixed gear was not there. With all the fixed stuff, it remains scary but not really difficult. There exists the potential to rip multiple pieces and end up on the ground.

This route faces east. It can be climbed in 1 or 2 pitches, solo or with a partner. An optional belay was added midway through the original single pitch.

History

"I remember getting the 2nd ascent of Skin Man with the late great Dave Anderson. While I was leading and finally getting to the first bolt, I remember thinking, that it was odd that the single 1/4" bolt Leeper hanger was clearly broken (split and I didn't think it would even hold a small fall...the bolt was good, but the hanger was not and I couldn't remove it) and placed purposely this way.

"With Dave's encouragement, I placed a second bolt right next to it. As it turned out, it was much to my later regret because I told Timmy about it immediately afterwards and he was upset in his quiet, unassuming way. He assured me by doing this, I had lowered the seriousness of the pitch and in effect changed the route. I felt bad afterwards and did not try to justify my actions to him anymore than explain our reasoning at the time...it always comes down to one's own ability to deal with fear, perhaps. Dave's and my thinking at the time was if one places a bolt it might as well be a good one? Then again, we left all of our heads fixed and he had not.

"Maybe the only time an A4+ pitch is an A4+ pitch is during the first ascent....? But that isn't always the way OTHER people think...just an added thought and some history to that line."

—James Garrett

Descent

Two-rope rappel to the ground (from the Batman station at the end of the route).

Protection

Heads, hooks, pins (thin, shallow, sawed off, etc.)

Location

This route is located approximately 300 yards northeast of the south face of Black Peeler Buttress.

The approach is arduous, with bushwhacking and 4th class climbing. Assume 50-60 minutes. Most of that time is spent getting from the south face to this east-facing route.

Photos

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Hi Troy,
Cool that you are doing these obscure aid routes...fun for sure. Do you really think Skin Man is still A4+? I would think A4+ is like miles of hooking with nothing left in place. The Hallucinagen has lots more of this I thought than Skin Man, but is rated only A2+ or maybe A3 these days with the lowered ratings. Oct 7, 2006