Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II|
|FA:||Tim Wagner, 1994|
|Page Views:||1,228 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned on Oct 5, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
After the rivets, climb/traverse left (west) via fixed heads, hooks, pins, etc. The route ends with hooking to a bolt, followed by a pendulum to the anchor (shared with Batman. This route would be extremely hard if the fixed gear was not there. With all the fixed stuff, it remains scary but not really difficult. There exists the potential to rip multiple pieces and end up on the ground.
This route faces east. It can be climbed in 1 or 2 pitches, solo or with a partner. An optional belay was added midway through the original single pitch.
"With Dave's encouragement, I placed a second bolt right next to it. As it turned out, it was much to my later regret because I told Timmy about it immediately afterwards and he was upset in his quiet, unassuming way. He assured me by doing this, I had lowered the seriousness of the pitch and in effect changed the route. I felt bad afterwards and did not try to justify my actions to him anymore than explain our reasoning at the time...it always comes down to one's own ability to deal with fear, perhaps. Dave's and my thinking at the time was if one places a bolt it might as well be a good one? Then again, we left all of our heads fixed and he had not.
"Maybe the only time an A4+ pitch is an A4+ pitch is during the first ascent....? But that isn't always the way OTHER people think...just an added thought and some history to that line."