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Limestone Cowboy
5.12a,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 73
votes
FA: B. Boyle, C. Barnes, R. Mitchel
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Northern Wasatch
> Cache Valley
> Logan Canyon
> Fucoidal Quartzite
Description
Easy climbing for the first couple bolts to a rest ledge. Sequential crimps lead you through the crux. The last couple clips are on large holds but the climbing is steep and pumpy.
Location
Park at the sign for Fucoidal Quartzite. Walk up the trail and head left. It is the climb farthest left on the wall. Starts under the tree.
[Hide Photo] left to right 1. Limestone Cowboy 2. Tiny Toons 3. Illusions 4. Adios Amigos with variation Adios Mission 5.11B in red 5. Mission Statement 6. Community Effort 7. Jam Crack 8. Begging Fo…
[Hide Photo] routes left to right 1. Limestone Cowboy 5.12 2. Tiny Toons 5.5 3. Illusions 5.10b, or finish in chimney: 5.11a or finish on Adios amigos 5.12a/b 4. Adios Amigos 5.12a
[Hide Comment] I'm surprised nobody has really commented on this climb. If you are looking for a 12a in this canyon, this is a great one to start with, and it is one of my favorites at the FQ area. I thought there were 2 crux moves that both involved fairly long, committing moves and small crimps. Other than that, there is some really fun movement up the steep section, while you fight the pump and rest on periodic jugs. Put this on your to-do list
Jul 23, 2011
[Hide Comment] I agree with Ryan that there are 2 cruxes with a good little rest in-between. The first is more thin and crimpy, the second being long and committing which puts you on some good holds to shake out on. Then muster up the juice to blast through the steep and juggy climbing past a bolt to the chains.
Mar 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] This climb is a blast. The crimpy sections are a lot of fun. The jug haul at the end of the route is also fun. The protection is good and there are just enough committing moves to make you feel like you earned it. A must do!
Aug 8, 2019
[Hide Comment] The big jug/flake up high feels like it could come off any day now, especially if a climber is pulling out on the hold or really lunging for it. It is large enough to be quite dangerous when it does fall. I'd recommend having your belayer stand well to the left if you do get on the route. Maybe some good samaritan out there wants to reinforce it with epoxy? I think epoxy is probably a better option than prying it out, as it would keep that section fun and juggy.
May 27, 2022
[Hide Comment] Definitely recommend wearing a helmet on this one... A softball size rock fell off today and nearly hit us on the ground. This didn't affect the route at all but something to be aware of. Also, the chalked up jug below the chains is getting wobbly.
Mar 21, 2024
Avg: 3.5 from 73
votes
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![left to right<br>
1. [[105869709]]<br>
2. [[105796332]]<br>
3. [[105796335]] <br>
4. [[105869786]]<br>
with variation Adios Mission 5.11B in red<br>
5. [[105869792]]<br>
6. [[105796338]]<br>
7. [[107827457]]<br>
8. [[105869796]]<br>
9. [[105869804]] P1 and P2<br>
10.[[107830688]] (Trad)<br>
11.[[106516932]]](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/107864378_medium_1494247104.jpg?cache=1701317754)
Salt Lake City, UT
Ogden
Logan, UT
Las Vegas, NV
Heard from a local that some holds had broken in the past but it still felt very 12a to me. May 7, 2021
Salt Lake City, UT
Utah