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Wildflowers

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 2.7 from 14 votes
FA: B. Dougherty, Art Higbee, August 1974
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire

Description

This is a great route with fun sustained climbing but I give it two stars because the rocks not as clean as some of the more popular routes. But if your looking for a moderate route with no one else on it that's not to far from camp, this might be it. (Note: it's easy to stretch out the pitches described below to go faster as the route pretty much goes straight up with no traversing).

P1/2: Climb up some lichen covered blocks following cracks and flakes to a right facing dihedral, belay here or continue up to the bottom of the large left facing dihedral above and belay. (5.7/8)

P3: Follow the large dihedral with some wider jamming to a belay stance. (5.9)

P4: Continue up the dihedral to another belay. (5.9)

P5: Step right and continue up the main dihedral with more stemming and jamming. (5.9)

P6: Follow thinner cracks and flakes to a large ledge on the arete and belay. (5.9)

P7: Climb a shorter pitch up a crack to the right of the arete. (5.7)

P8: Follow awkward flaring cracks and grooves to the summit ridge and belay. (5.9)

To descend scramble south from the summit and look for a bolt anchor on the west face. These rappels only require one 60m rope with bolt anchors all the way down.

Location

Wildflowers is located on the west face of Snowpatch which is accessed via the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. The start of the route lies almost directly below the south summit and follows a large left facing dihedral. Begin on a ledge about 200' below the dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 3" should suffice.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper pitches above the long corner.
[Hide Photo] Upper pitches above the long corner.
Following the third pitch of Wildflowers.  This might be the fourth pitch in the book.
[Hide Photo] Following the third pitch of Wildflowers. This might be the fourth pitch in the book.
topo by Benson and Green, with edits
[Hide Photo] topo by Benson and Green, with edits
looking up at wildflowers sowpatch spire
[Hide Photo] looking up at wildflowers sowpatch spire
Wildflowers!<br>
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Photo by MP contributor Dr. Evil<br>
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[Hide Photo] Wildflowers! Photo by MP contributor Dr. Evil

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Banfield
Calgary, Alberta
[Hide Comment] Have you gone down the west face with only a 60m rope? Re rapped it last week and were right at the ends on a 70m rope on the 4th rap I think. Are there other stations than the 'main' stations on the descent?

Thanks
Tim Aug 14, 2012