All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Crescent Spire
Paddle Flake Direct
Avg: 3.3 from 26 votes
Routes in Crescent Spire
|Energy Crisis T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|McTech Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|McTech Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Paddle Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Paddle Flake Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Surprisingly Subsevere T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Westside Story T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Woza Moya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Chris Atkinson, Dan Redford, August 1989|
|Page Views:||5,748 total, 42/month|
|Shared By:||Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006|
DescriptionThis is a fun route on really good quality rock and all the pitches are rated 5.10 according to the book with the crux coming on the 4th pitch.
P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.
P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and belay.
P3: Continue climbing the face heading up and right to a chimney, struggle up the chimney and belay on top at a two bolt anchor. (It is also possible to avoid the chimney by traversing to the right and climbing a hand crack to the same stance).
P4: Step right and climb up a steep crack corner to perfect hands through a roof. Pull the roof and belay in a crack to the left.
P5: Climb straight up awkward finger to fist sized cracks to the top of the ridge.