Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chris Atkinson, Dan Redford, August 1989
Page Views: 6,724 total · 45/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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This is a fun route on really good quality rock and all the pitches are rated 5.10 according to the book with the crux coming on the 4th pitch.

P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.

P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and belay.

P3: Continue climbing the face heading up and right to a chimney, struggle up the chimney and belay on top at a two bolt anchor. (It is also possible to avoid the chimney by traversing to the right and climbing a hand crack to the same stance).

P4: Step right and climb up a steep crack corner to perfect hands through a roof. Pull the roof and belay in a crack to the left.

P5: Climb straight up awkward finger to fist sized cracks to the top of the ridge.


To get to this route climb up about 40' from the Crescent Glacier to a large ledge. Follow the ledge left to get to the start of the first pitch which is about 40' to the left of McTech Arete, and 10' left of a large left facing dihedral (that's a lot of left's). To get down walk east up the ridge to the top of McTech Arete and look out on the south face for a chain anchor. The anchor is not visible from above. Only one 60m rope is needed for the rappels.


Small cams and extra nuts for the lower pitches and hand to fist size cams up high. There is one bolted belay about halfway up at the top of a chimney but the rest you have to set up yourself.
Devan Johnson   Foco
Much better overall than Mctech.. Aug 3, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Due to an impending storm we found it's possible to escape from the tat anchors near the base of the paddle flake by climbing up and right to the big corner and then making a non-hands, tricky foot traverse right across the clean face along the obvious crack leading up and right to the small, overhanging alcove where the bolted rap anchors of Westside Story are found. This was probably about 10b and bit scarier for the second but actually pretty fun, interesting climbing. Aug 16, 2015
abe r
Boise, ID
abe r   Boise, ID
fun! I thought the top of P1, bypassing the overhangs was the crux. Thin, delicate moves on some small gear.

Also the description above describes P3, the paddle flake pitch, as starting off on the left side of the flake in a OW. The right side of the flake for sure goes and follows a superb crack. Thats how I did it at least... Jul 30, 2018
Alex SP
Canmore, AB
Alex SP   Canmore, AB
Amazing route. Liked it a bit more than McTech because it was more sustained and varied. Marc Piche's guidebook incorrectly states that pitch 3 is 5.10 hands. It's actually 5.10 squeeze chimney if you follow his topo. This was the crux of the route for us as you squeeze up a chimney that flares out and gets more narrow as you go up as well. Luckily this is only 10m or so and you can also bypass it to the right. Jan 8, 2019