PRINT: Rock Climb Copperhead, Red River Gorge

Copperhead

5.7, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 13 votes
FA: Larry Day, Bob Compton 1974
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Jewel Pinnacle

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

This route ascends a face, to a short veritcal crack and then a low angle flake to a ledge.

The name is apt. Many people have reported seeing the namesake of this route on the belay ledge. If you climb in warmer months be wary.

Location

The route begins on the NE corner of Jewel Pinnacle and follows the crack. This can be top roped by scrambling up to the ledge to the left or on the descent from Diamond in the Crack.

Protection

Mostly medium sized cams. But take a few other pieces as well. There is a tree on the ledge. You can rappel from the tree or walk off left.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

T. Polk top roping Copperhead.

First part

Last section of the route is super sandy all the way up. There are no anchors at the top. Can rap from a big pine tree to the left of the ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Haak
Salt Lake City, UT

Cool and varied route! Definitely worth running up if you made the trek here. After the vertical cracks to start, follow the ramp/crack out left. Once I gained the ledge I traversed back right to the webbing anchor that it shares with Kool Aid (this is directly over the start). The webbing was solid, but I would recommend bringing your own to supplement (~120cm). Mar 15, 2017

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY

Definitely bit of an old school grade on this one. Finished the climb and set a TR anchor out to climbers left, I left new webbing with some chain link as of 9/29/19. Gear beta: when starting up the wall from the tree, about 10 feet up you can wedge a horizontal #2 (I imagine a tricam would work well here) which seemed pretty clutch since it was my only gear between the crack in the bulge and the ground. Sep 30, 2019

Nolan Buland
Kentucky

5.6

The old RRG North book describes this as a 5.6. The route isn’t technical, but lord, it is super, super dirty with a couple of wide moves that can feel a little sketchy at times. Additionally, there are no anchors or webbing currently at the top. We had to rappel from a very large pine tree to the left side of the ledge (when facing the rock). Copperheads are def present on this route. came across a large one Jul 13, 2025