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Routes in Haystack Rock

Auxier Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dirty Rastafarian Scoundrels T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Girdle Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Haystack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Original Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
South East Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 339 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This route has traditionally been described as separate from Haystack Rock, and while it is not on the pinnacle, the approach and return are the same so it makes sense to include it with Haystack.

Climb the long, mostly 4th class chimney in one or two pitches to the top of a block that is separated, by the chimney, from the main wall. Rappel back to the ledge against the main wall and head back to the saddle at Haystack.

Location

To reach the start, scramble down the gully past Dirty Rastafarian Scoundrels until you reach the base of the cliff. Head right (left if you faced the cliff) until you find a deep, recessed chimney at the right edge of a tall, expansive face. Climb up through a tight bulge, then exit left or continue up the right chimney past a ledge to the top of a block on the right. Rappel from a small tree to the left.

Protection

A big piece for the start and some smaller pieces for the upper part.

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