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Routes in Willie's Wall

Lust At First Sight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Missing the Obvious T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Prozac Nation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
She Loves Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, 1995
Page Views: 62 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Maybe a destination route if fright is your game. This route was not followed on the FA- I rapped down it and that was that.
This route name was derived from a review of the Album 'Our Time In Eden' by 10,000 Maniacs. The reviewer commented on it's almost suicidal depression and referred to it as "The Theme ALbum for a Prozac Nation." Although I like the Album, the review stuck with me.
The climb was a little silly to have done ground-up, no preview, no cleaning and no gear to speak of. Perhaps a failed suicide attempt, but I recall fear more than depression.
Climb up the seam until it ends, making use of small edges and slopers, to the top of the wall. Rap from a tree or from fixed webbing above one of the more traveled climbs nearby.
The difficulty grade is questionable.

Location

Left of She Loves me (a left-facing dihedral) and right of Lust At First Sight (a crack behind a tree) there is a thin seam that ends before reaching the top of the wall.

Protection

Not much, not for me anyway. Nothing that would hold a fall was placed on the FA. Perhaps some camhooks or some offset nuts could work.

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