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Routes in Lumpy Wall

Little Boy Bleu V1 5
Major's Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Razor Burn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steal Your Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
There and Back Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 227 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

The start is awkward and the crux. Once you get into the main part of the crack you get good stances and good moves. Unfortunately the main part is too short. Belay on a ledge before the acute dihedral.

We found an ancient steel hex buried in the crack attached to some nearly completely deteriorated webbing.

Location

Hike right from the main wall of Lumpy for a few hunderd yards. This route can be identified as the best looking crack in the area. It begins in a short dihedral in a low spot and changes to a splitter hand crack in great rock.

Protection

Hand sized cams with a few pieces at either extreme (tight hands and fists). Take some wbbing for the anchor to rappel from the top of the first pitch.

We rappelled from a knotted piece of webbing slotted in the crack. Perfect anchor!

Photos

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Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
There is a second pitch to this. We couldn't see the upper part of it but the lower part looked really good. We bailed because by the time all four of us got to the belay ledge the first three were really sick of being on the wall and wanted to get down.

Someone should go do the upper pitch. Oct 13, 2006