PRINT: Rock Climb Yuk, Red River Gorge

Yuk

5.9 PG13, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 15 votes
FA: FA: J Koenig, T. Souders, R. Snyder, '84 (TR)
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Long Wall

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Great (Yum) if you like OW. Bad (Yuk) if you don't. Climb up the OW with chicken-wings, heal-toes, arm bars and the occasional chest-jam. Body size is a factor and larger folks may not get any rest and may really not like this climb. Top out on the obvious shelf and belay your partner up. There is a rap station above shared by Mailbox (5.8+).

Location

Continue right past the huge inset with the classics Autumn and Rock wars From those climbs start watching for an angled wall facing you, and for the huge crack splitting it top-to-bottom. This is Yuk.

Protection

TR or lots of wide gear. I "lead" this on some tube chocks before large cams wand big-bros were around, but that was a VS/X rated ascent and even with wide cams, I am not sure how many you could lug up there and place...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting to the squeeze. Splitter!

Tasty good Yuk

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Aguasca!
New York

5.9+ PG13

Classic OW climbing. Would be even better if it got a little more traffic, as the top is kind of dirty. Also, hard for the grade!

Does not protect with cams unless you have Valley Giants; takes #3 and #4 big bros pretty well, though. I found a single #2 camalot placement in a horizontal on the right face. Apr 6, 2015

Steven Lesiecki
Bozeman, MT

5.9 PG13

I got on this this weekend, I cleaned up the anchor, it now has two new pieces of webbing (3/17). if the next person up brings a new biner that be great but its solid now. I did want to say this though, the book says you can TR it, this is true, but its misleading. the anchor is 5' right of the crack, so you need 5' or so of something to redirect off a small bush over the crack. It is also slightly overhung, which makes TR'ing hard. Also,the travers is unprotect but its a 20' easy shuffle on a 1' ledge over there, my partner didn't want to do it so I actually lowered her off of Mailbox. If your going to lead it (which i plan on next time) be solid in your groveling, it will be a little sketchy. I think 2-3 6's will cover the bottom 1/3 if you don't mind them being completely tipped out, and then 4 big bro's for the top, at least 2., and watch the loose block at the top. Mar 26, 2017

Nathan Devan
Huntsville, AL

Video

youtu.be/EwTovOa19hQ?si=uCA…-

There are currently three cords on the tree with a large steel auto locker and one quicklink.
BETA:
I felt like with the right gear this climb was very safe. PG13 may come from a lack of having the big gear. #6 cams would be very pg13 at the start. Having no #8 and only 1 big bro would make it pretty scary too. You could use a double or longer sling on the stones at the top once the hard part is over. Sep 18, 2023