New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
This is a nice, very obscure, very well hidden short easy trad route. It is a left facing dihedral that is initially a finger crack which widens to hands and eventually wider but by the then you are climbing the featured face.
The top out is exciting and exposed.
When you reach the split for Lumpy Wall at the large boulder continue along Little East Fork of Indian Creek. Cross a tributary and continue until you come to another tributary coming in from the north. Leave the main creek and hike up the ridge on the east side of the second tributary. Youll pass through a cool pine grove and eventually come to a dense rhododendron thicket at the base of a cliff. Thrash around to the left keeping close to the wall. Look for one of two recesses with three short cracks. Ascend to the ledge halfway up the cliff and traverse right, back toward the main point, looking for a distinct low angle, left facing dihedral.
GPS: -83.6290, 37.8848
TCUs, small to medium cams and maybe one fist sized piece. Bring a couple shoulder slings. Very difficult to set up as a slingshot TR. Bette rto belay the second up and rappel back to the ledge to the SE.