Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,718 total · 18/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


174 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Decent warm-up route that that is probably easier than the 5.10 rating assigned to it. The start is loose-fingers or tight-hands and quickly goes to good hands. There are also face features to make it easier. After the hands section the crack pinches down and then finish to the anchors in another loose-fingers or tight-hands crack. Pretty fun, but not up to typical IC standards.

Location

Route starts on the right side of the buttress. It is one to the right of Railroad Tracks and a little before Three Strikes You're Out.

Protection

Camalots from green to gold should be sufficient.

Photos

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I found two brand new quick draws at that anchors on this route. Describe them, and you can have them back.
Sam Dec 10, 2006
One of the anchor bolts was hanging partway out of the hole spring 07'. This climb sucks anyway. Watched a girl almost deck from the top of this pile. She was placing a piece in the upper crack when she fell, bounced off the ledge and sailed head-first toward the ground to be stopped 5' above the ground and slammed face-first into the corner. The piece that caught her was a green camalot. It broke out a couple of inches of rock and had only two lobes left in the crack. Yikes! Sep 19, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Rating is closer to 5.8 than 5.10. Barely mediocre climbing considering the classic routes that abound on this cliff. May 23, 2008
logan johnson
West Copper, Co
  5.9
logan johnson   West Copper, Co
  5.9
Does anyone know if there is a second OW pitch that goes to the top of the large pillar? Oct 23, 2008
Average Jim
  5.9
Average Jim  
  5.9
Climbed this rout yesterday, fun/nothing spectacular, however it gives you a good angle to take photos of folks climbing Railroad Tracks. Mar 30, 2009
Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
I have always called this Guides Crack. I don't know where I heard it but since it doesn't have a name... ? Well, just a thought at least. Apr 26, 2011
Dan M
CO
  5.9
Dan M   CO
  5.9
There is an old plaque at the base that appears to say Syd Vicious 5.10-. Apr 9, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
5.10???? was told by some folks at the crag that it was 5.7. Three kids had just walked up it. Seemed pretty easy to me. 5.8 at most. Feb 16, 2016