PRINT: Rock Climb Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs, Santa Fe Area

Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs

5.8, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 111 votes
FA: Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Runway (Lower Tier)

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

A fun, good sport route on the right end of the Early Wall. Called the easiest sport route at Diablo, it's a good way to warm up and/or get used to the rock. Lots of good ledges for hands and feet to a relatively thin crux near the top.

Location

This is on the right end of the Early Wall near the entrance to the Grotto. It's shown as route #15 on the online Diablo Canyon guide.

Protection

6 bolts to two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Josh Parks on his first outdoor climb in a few years!

Roger Rumsey leading "Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs" at the Early Wall at Diablo Canyon, NM.

Classic rope & rock photo.

John leading Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs

Bill Geist leading "Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs" at the Early Wall at Diablo Canyon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM

See route # 15 on photo Oct 31, 2006

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM

Use this route to access Airbus by traversing left and up 20 feet from the anchors. Dec 7, 2006

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM

Great route for the grade. Lots of pulls going the "wrong" way make for great opositional movement. Sort of a signature for Diablo. Jul 29, 2007

Karl R. Kiser

The Diablo Standard crack (first pitch crack awful) above this route had been climbed by Greg Swift and Tim Johnson In the early 1980s although I do not know if it was a FA. Apr 2, 2008

Ken Kisiel

The crack we dubed "Diablo Standard" in the mid 90's is well east of this route and consists of two pitches (see online guide). Although there could be another Diablo Standard named by different parties that could also be considered "crack awful" through the lower band of rock. Jul 8, 2008

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM

Anyone been working on a new route between Drunk Rednecks & Clip Art (at the Runway/Early Wall)? We cleaned the line partialy about 2 weeks ago and added a directional bolt. Last Friday, Mike noticed a set of anchors above the line that I don't recall being there before. Anyone planning anything?
May 15, 2012

Frank Hatch

Classic climb for a first time 19 year old to lead. Jun 17, 2023