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Routes in Glen Canyon

Broken Bow Arch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheesebox, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Chimney Rock C0+
Don't Do That Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 R
Giant Vagina, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hole-lee Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Middle Finger Tower, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-
Sandcastle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tower Butte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1+
Type: Aid, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,387 total, 17/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Oct 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climbing restrictions and closures Details
Climbing regulations are in effect. Details

Description

  • **This tower is closed to climbing between March 1st- August 31st due to nesting birds. (see picture)

The route consists of approximately 20 bolts/angles.

It starts on the Northeast face following 4 or 5 hangerless bolts. The route continues up and around to the North face proper following more hangerless bolts, bolts with hangers, and angles. There is one free move at the end of the climb, which is made easier with some creativity and/or rock shoes. (Or bring a smattering of trad. gear for that one move.)

This is a very straight forward climb in an isolated location. It is a spectacular free standing tower which begs the question, "How did it get there?" as it sits alone on a broad plain.

The C0+ rating is given to the route due to the occasional downward extruding hangerless bolts. They can make for some exciting moves unless you have some nuts to screw on. (There are approximately 8 hangerless/nutless bolts in all.)

Rappel with two ropes. It seems to be on the verge of allowing a single 60m rappel, but I forgot to check the length before I pulled the ropes. Bring two if you enjoy being prudent.

Side note: On the rappel, I dropped the ropes onto a rattlesnake... very memorable!

Location

Heading east from the town of Escalante, turn on the Hole in the Rock road. Drive this road for about 35 miles until you see the sign indicating Chimney Rock on the left. Take this road (it says "High Clearance 4WD Only" but a 2WD car could PROBABLY make it... there are some sandy sections. But I fortunately had a 4WD high clearance truck, so maybe I am not a good judge of the road's car worthiness. Use your own best judgement obviously.) Chimney rock is approximately 2 miles off of the Hole in the Rock road.

About a mile in (or less), you will come to a fork in the road, take the left fork and it will lead you directly to the base of the tower.

  • **Chimney Rock is in the Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument, on the edge of the Glen Canyon NRA.

Protection

Quickdraws, and depending on your desired excitement level, possibly nuts to place on the bolts (Recommended.)
Wow, that is really cool. I can't believe that tower is standing in that field all by itself. I have to say I didn't really believe you when you told me. How is that even possible? See you around man. Nov 17, 2006