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Munginella
5.6,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 889
votes
FA: Tom Fender, Vic Tishous, 1966.
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> E Yosemite Fall…
> Five Open Books
> First Tier
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Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This very popular route lies in the farthest left book.
The Reid guide shows it as three pitches, but it's great to do it in two with a 60 meter rope. There are three trees on the route. Climb to the third tree, make a hard left, 10' to the corner. There's a nice little ledge there where you can sit and belay. Another long pitch goes to the top.
Location
Approach: At one point you should cross the stream bed to the right, and walk up a small rock slab to where the route continues. The approach should take ~15 minutes if you don't get off route.
The carabiner signs posts (there are 2) are not easily spotted from the trail on the approach. When you get an information signpost titled "Profile of a Waterfall", back up 50 feet and look to your left. You'll see the carabiner signpost tucked into the woods about 30 feet from the trail. Follow it up and it'll lead you to the second signpost, which is right at the start of the route. You will need to go up the 3rd class and right along a ledge for the first belay at a tree/bush/ledge.
Descent: Right at the top there are two paths to the left, one goes down and one goes up. Go up!!! The down path leads to an extremely small path on the edge of a cliff, with a short downclimb. If you fall, slip or trip there you will die. The paths meet later. You can rappel from the bolts you find with a 60 meter rope, if you don't want to walk/slide down the slabs near them.
[Hide Photo] Climbing - I mean, following on - the last pitch of Munginella was truly satisfying. Of course I'll never know how Matt leads them all so non-chalantly.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on the 2nd pitch of Munginella
[Hide Comment] the trail description in the Supertopo guide is wrong. the carabiner posts no longer exist, except for the one at the route beginning.
Sep 21, 2008
[Hide Comment] We found two carabiner posts today: one tucked into the trees near the start of the approach (somewhat hard to find), and another right at the base of the wall where you scramble up for the first pitch of Munginella (very obvious). Awesome route!
Mar 28, 2010
[Hide Comment] I'm really surprised that no one has commented on how dirty the second pitch is. Don't get me wrong - I thought this was a fun cruiser climb, but I was blowing and wiping sand off of holds for the last 50 feet, trying not to slip. I guess it sprinkles down on the climb from the trail above?
Oct 21, 2010
[Hide Comment] A Yosemite classic at the 5.6 level. That said, it still tends to be gritty and dirty from constant dirt and rockfall, knocked down from above. This is an absolute "must wear a hard hat" area! The first pitch is a real kick!
Mar 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] This is a truly relaxing route. It rounded off our Yosemite trip quite well. I found #.75 - #2 Camalots and larger BD stoppers to be my best friends.
Apr 25, 2011
[Hide Comment] it can be done in 2 pitches with a 50 meter if you belay at the highest stance or simul climb for 10 ft. on the first pitch.
Jun 14, 2011
[Hide Comment] Just be careful after topping out and try not to dislodge rocks on others below. The ledge is dirty and very loose. Still one of my favorites after many years. Some really good but easy climbing!
Jul 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] watch out for ants-infested cracks that are often very inviting hand jams. Ran into one on first pitch and they were all over my body biting before I could put a piece in and hang (they even followed my rope up as I was belaying my second)!
Nov 15, 2012
[Hide Comment] 2nd Multi-pitch route in Yos. lots of fun super cruisy with a great view of the falls halfway through the 2P. Try out the short bolt alt. to the right on P2. Have fun, I did!
Nov 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] Just want to reiterate that the top has many large, loose blocks. Heading to the right at the top avoided most of the deathblocks. Great route, enjoy!
Jul 30, 2013
[Hide Comment] Got off route after the third tree; went over the roof and followed the thin double cracks ... was wondering what that is (is it a route), and what it goes at ... ?
Oct 1, 2013
[Hide Comment] I have no idea how this climb is considered a classic. The first 1-2 pitches totally suck and are a scramble up a chossy gully - 4th class at best except for a few moves. Maybe a half-pitch of cool climbing at the top. Worst climb I've done in Yosemite.
Mar 13, 2014
Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:
does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six).
Mar 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] Just to give my $0.02 on finding this thing: The carabiner posts (there are 2) are not easily spotted from the trail. When you get an information signpost titled "Profile of a Waterfall", back up 50ft and look to your left. You'll see the carabiner signpost tucked into the woods about 30ft from the trail. Follow it up and it'll lead you to the second signpost, which is right at the start of the route. You will need to go up the 3rd class and right along a ledge for the first belay.
Nov 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] I was on this for the 1st time in many years recently. We climbed out on the right face to avoid the 3 parties on the route. The face is a bit more difficult (5.7) and with trickier pro but just as fun in its own right.
This climb is probably the most dangerous route in the Supertopo guidebook. The 5.1 escape gully at the start of the second pitch is a natural funnel for rocks being knocked down from above. I saw a softball size rock nearly hit a girl starting up the second pitch. Several other rocks came down on us while racking up at the base. People doing the descent of 5 Open Books are either unaware/unwilling/incapable of descending without sending a stream of rockfall down this route. Be careful out there.
Feb 19, 2015
[Hide Comment] A fun alternative 3rd pitch goes right up the hand crack on the face. It was pretty fun, ST says it goes at 5.7, but felt harder due to having to clean dirt out of the holds and there were a few pretty committing moves where you just have to stand up and trust there is a good higher jam/jug.
In any event, I would suggest starting this really early as it is very easy to get stuck behind slow parties...
Mar 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] We opted to do the 5.7 finish. Although the climbing is fun, I don't recommend the 5.7 variation. The top out is *extremely* loose and nearly impossible to setup a belay and not knock shit down. Do the left standard finish and belay at the bolts.
Jun 19, 2015
[Hide Comment] Great route. My partner and I aren't great at route finding, so the approach up the climber trail was annoying, but if you just keep going up, you'll eventually find it.
We climbed it just after a rain so the "4th class" approach to the first belay was a little sketchy — the dead tree in the way was slick. Other than that, you just had to avoid wet munge. From the roof section up the final 70 feet or so was my favorite spot. Careful of the loose block in the hand jam about 9 feet from the top.
The hike down was phenomenal as well. From the top, just take a left and go downhill and start traversing the green meadow across a few streams. Theres a pretty good rap down between the two streams so long as you don't mind soaking your rope. Very scenic.
Apr 14, 2016
[Hide Comment] Left a sling with a number 4 camalot and a grigri hanging on a tree at the base of the climb. Please DM me if you grabbed this. Thanks!
Oct 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] Lots of people have commented about the loose rock at the top, but I have to reiterate. I climbed this route with my wife last weekend and there is dirty chockstone where P3 widens at the top that has moved a noticeable amount recently. It could become a death block if weighted.
Apr 3, 2018
[Hide Comment] Must have helmet route! While climbing, multiple rocks rained down from different parties. A pretty good size chunk hit a girl in the helmet that would surely sent her to the hospital if she didn't have it on.
Mar 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] Great route. Got lost on the decent. Went up rather than left. We walked around at the base of the second tier for like an hour before we realized our mistake. After getting to the top of this climb, go IMMEDIATELY left and down.
Mar 28, 2019
[Hide Comment] First time in the valley, first multipitch trad climb, and first trad lead. Had a double set of C4s (0.5-3), one size 0 mastercam, and a set of nuts. Even for a new leader sewing it up, it was more than enough gear. Climb was mostly cruisy, but had a few moves where you had to really trust your feet. We did it as 3 pitches. We set up the third pitch as a gear anchor on the ledge just after the small roof section. There's 1 fixed piton that looks pretty beat, and a crack for a some smaller cams BD .4-.75ish.
The descent trail description was good. Go left and UP (not down) until you reach a grassy area with some slabs. It was pretty wet so we took the repel at some easy to spot bolts at the begging of the slabs. There was creek at the base of the repel so your rope will get wet. I also had my life saved by my auto block on the repel. Wet slabs are slippery...
Overall awesome route with fun climbing the whole way.
May 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] After getting lost on the decent three times now let me provide a little clarity. From the end of the climb, go climbers left and down past the gully where'd you'd die if you fell but won't fall because it's pretty secure. After that section of the trail if you turn right and go up about 15 feet you'll see a trail to your left (marked with cairn this week) that is MUCH safer than the standard decent trail. This meets up with the standard trail after about 600 - 1,000 feet and avoids the section that requires some downclimbing right next to the cliff edge.
Jun 24, 2019
[Hide Comment] Clint's photo is correct. If you are anywhere where you would die if you fell descending Munginella you have went the wrong way! At the top of munginella go climber's left, while facing left take the right/upper fork when there is a fork in the paths. You should mostly be walking against the upper rock wall away from the cliff edge.
Jun 25, 2019
[Hide Comment] Some of the nicest 5.6 climbing I've ever done, great moves!
Did it easy in 2 pitches with 70m rope. A lot of the sign posts they mention may have been removed, especially right at the start of the trail off the main one. Look for a small trail to the East of the main trail slight before the big round-about thingy.
Scramble up class 3ish to a tree for your first belay.
Dec 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the variation is to the right of P2?
After the tree you follow the wide cracks to a ledge stance on the arete where you can clip one bolt and are in good full view of the roof on Commitment. There are 3 more bolts to the ledge below the standard corner finish and 5.7 variation.
Does anyone know what this half-pitch bolted variation is called/graded?
[Hide Comment] @livinontheledge I just did this climb for the first time today and didn’t read the pitch instructions about the hard right and belayed from the first two bolts on that variation as the first pitch with a 70m. Still a bit grainy, maybe a couple 5.8 slab moves off the belay but probably feels harder because the edges aren’t cleaned up and trustworthy yet. Great exposure on the arete though... if it ever cleans up would be a fun variation if you climb this consistently.
May 13, 2021
[Hide Comment] So what happens when climbers don't read the beta on Mtp before climbing? They do reckless thing that Mtp advises against! Yes, Matt and I walked off the way we shouldn't have. It was an absolutely terrifying experience!!! I was ready to scream the next day when I came here and read the description warning against going left and walking on the edge of a precipice. It. Was. Truly. Terrifying! I never want to experience anything like that ever again! Other than that, it was a wonderful route that Matt easily led and I enjoyed following on on May 9, 2021. Will remember for ages!
May 15, 2021
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! Did it in 2 pitches with a 70m. Slightly challenging to find. You won't find the approach trail if walking on the paved path for the yosemite falls trail. Instead take a small trail that runs along side it and look for a sign post with a carabiner. There are supposed to be multiple sign posts but we only found the one at the start of the approach trail. When you reach the wall at the top of this, you'll need to scramble up some (3rd class?) slabs and then a (4th class) ramp to the first belay. If you go past the ramp down the obvious trail you'll end up at commitment or another one of the five open books. Be careful to go the correct way on the decent as others have mentioned.
Jun 7, 2021
[Hide Comment] Classic Yosemite 5.6, also known as 5.8 elsewhere lol. A beautiful climb. Don't get distracted by the bolts on the right halfway up, go left and head towards the corner. That tenuous move out of the corner onto the face near the top will challenge your feet!
Sep 24, 2021
[Hide Comment] Does anybody know the history of the section of slab directly below the tree at the start of the first pitch? My partner and I had trouble finding the path to get to the start of the route and found ourselves about 80’ directly below the tree that starts Munginella.
Climbing this slab was not fun. We started up a thin flake to a mossy water groove about 25’ up. The crux was a sketchy sloping mantle on crumbling/chossy slab. Then about 30’ of runout mossy/crumbling slab til you reach a thin traversing trail. 20’ more of steeper slab directly up to the tree that marks the beginning of Munginella to set an anchor. Best guess is that this goes at 5.7-5.8 Pg-13/R
Any info on 1) a name of the route, 2) the FA, or 3) a guidebook that might have info would be greatly appreciated! It’s Yosemite so I’m not delusional enough to believe I was the first to do it.
Oct 21, 2021
[Hide Comment] I had put this route off for a long time thinking it would be an overly easy/boring munge/chossaneering route (+crowded). I was dead wrong, this was a blast! Low angle splitter bliss made for a delightful two pitch climb. Had the route all to ourselves on a brisk day yesterday. A few notes: - It's difficult to protect the traverse to the P1 ledge (hard left into the corner at the 3rd tree as others have mentioned) for the follower. It's really easy climbing following a wide horizontal crack hand over hand, but a follower fall would result in a pretty nasty swing into the corner. - I thought the moves under/exiting the roof were the clear crux, and maybe hard for 5.6? I think I would have been pretty nervous if I was a 5.8 or below leader - I didn't think the route was that dirty, some loose dirt on a few holds at the top was all. I've climbed wayyy dirtier (but still highly rated) routes in the valley. - I looked all over and didn't find a bolted anchor at the top as indicated in the Sloan topo. Or even evidence of a chopped anchor (???). I slung the tree with a bight of my rope and extended myself and the belay back to the edge so I could see my follower. This does make for a slightly longer TR fall for the follower given the anchor stretch, but I didn't see a great alternative. A bolted anchor would be great for keeping wear off the tree/reducing the likelihood of knocking dirt/rocks down the route.
Feb 22, 2022
[Hide Comment] The beta advising you to take an "upper path" on the walk-off may be a bit dated or apply to an alternate finish. At the top of the regular finish you can anchor and belay off a tree. From there you go up a little and slightly right. There is a very obvious and clear path on the left which quickly starts downward for the walk off. There is a less used path going up instead. The less used upward path sends you to the drop-off you want to avoid. I spent a lot of time bushwhacking looking for the correct "upper" path and ultimately returned to the top-out and took the lower path which went clearly and directly to the correct walk off and the rappel rings. If you get to the ledge you should avoid (which will be obvious) you can look down and see that the walk off is at the base of that short cliff. Go back and take the lower path.
Jul 11, 2022
[Hide Comment] Fun route that was much cleaner than a number of other routes at the books. I found the face/lieback crux move on the 2nd pitch to be fairly challenging for 5.6, felt more like 5.7. I also would recommend the 5.7 crack finish on the right. The pro was solid and there were good stances for placing. If you get to the climb and there are a bunch of parties ahead of you, I would strongly consider another route for the rockfall hazard listed frequently in the comments.
Sep 27, 2022
[Hide Comment] Downclimb on the slab felt like class 2 to me. If you managed to lead the 5.6 pitch I wouldn't worry about the left path being risky. It is at least a foot wide and only about 20ft long; the runout in the climb itself felt far riskier
Oct 24, 2022
[Hide Comment] If you do the bolted variation that heads right on the last pitch, beware of dangerous rock at the top-out!! My partner dislodged a large microwave-sized rock, maybe 100 pounds, which nearly severed the rope and missed me by about a foot. When I reached the top of the climb, it was clear that the next large chunk of the lip is ready to come down too. It doesn't look loose, but it sits on a sloping ledge so will easily dislodge.
May 21, 2023
The crux is finding the route! Having never been to Yosemite before, we were lost for a good while. Here are the GPS coordinates for the ramp to the first belay for pitch 1 of Munginella: 37.748263, -119.597956. See this picture of the dude walking up the ramp to the first pitch: mountainproject.com/photo/1….
As you start the second pitch, make the hard left into the corner dihedral, instead of getting suckered to the right, or you will find yourself off-route.
The walk off is also a little tricky to follow, as well, so read the descent information a few times. The anchors for the rappel do exist, but it took us awhile to find them, probably because we got a little lost, ending up on a ledge about 25 feet above the anchors. But don't let the descent scare you... you'll keep a cool head, and find your way down. If you can lead 5.6 trad, this really is a fun route!
[Hide Comment] I have taken many newbies on this climb for their first multipitch! Very fun climb! In my opinion, the last part of the approach is an improbable 4th class so pay attention to the photos above. (I am one of those people who has accidently climbed The Committment in the past.) Also, the warnings about loose rock at the top are true. Be careful.
Jul 29, 2023
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Concord, CA
the couch
Rocks you turn loose on your way to the descent will rocket down the dihedral, launching onto climbers below you. Just pay attention. Jul 9, 2010
San Luis Obispo
Billings, MT
Pacifica, CA
Billings, MT
California
Nevada City, CA
Poncha Springs, CO
Colorado
Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:
mountainproject.com/v/10604…
does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six). Mar 13, 2014
Charlotte NC
Livermore, CA
This climb is probably the most dangerous route in the Supertopo guidebook. The 5.1 escape gully at the start of the second pitch is a natural funnel for rocks being knocked down from above. I saw a softball size rock nearly hit a girl starting up the second pitch. Several other rocks came down on us while racking up at the base. People doing the descent of 5 Open Books are either unaware/unwilling/incapable of descending without sending a stream of rockfall down this route. Be careful out there. Feb 19, 2015
Bishop, CA
In any event, I would suggest starting this really early as it is very easy to get stuck behind slow parties... Mar 24, 2015
San Diego, CA
Rhododendron, OR
We climbed it just after a rain so the "4th class" approach to the first belay was a little sketchy — the dead tree in the way was slick. Other than that, you just had to avoid wet munge. From the roof section up the final 70 feet or so was my favorite spot. Careful of the loose block in the hand jam about 9 feet from the top.
The hike down was phenomenal as well. From the top, just take a left and go downhill and start traversing the green meadow across a few streams. Theres a pretty good rap down between the two streams so long as you don't mind soaking your rope. Very scenic. Apr 14, 2016
Burque, NM
Fort Bragg, CA
Pittsburgh, PA
Telluride, CO
The descent trail description was good. Go left and UP (not down) until you reach a grassy area with some slabs. It was pretty wet so we took the repel at some easy to spot bolts at the begging of the slabs. There was creek at the base of the repel so your rope will get wet. I also had my life saved by my auto block on the repel. Wet slabs are slippery...
Overall awesome route with fun climbing the whole way. May 13, 2019
San Francisco, CA
Palo Alto, CA
I believe this photo shows the descent you describe.
mountainproject.com/photo/1… Jun 24, 2019
Los Angeles, CA
Did it easy in 2 pitches with 70m rope. A lot of the sign posts they mention may have been removed, especially right at the start of the trail off the main one. Look for a small trail to the East of the main trail slight before the big round-about thingy.
Scramble up class 3ish to a tree for your first belay. Dec 6, 2019
Fresno
Coarsegold, CA
strawberry
After the tree you follow the wide cracks to a ledge stance on the arete where you can clip one bolt and are in good full view of the roof on Commitment. There are 3 more bolts to the ledge below the standard corner finish and 5.7 variation.
Does anyone know what this half-pitch bolted variation is called/graded?
Thanks May 4, 2021
Bend, OR
On the road in US
They do reckless thing that Mtp advises against!
Yes, Matt and I walked off the way we shouldn't have. It was an absolutely terrifying experience!!! I was ready to scream the next day when I came here and read the description warning against going left and walking on the edge of a precipice.
It. Was. Truly. Terrifying! I never want to experience anything like that ever again!
Other than that, it was a wonderful route that Matt easily led and I enjoyed following on on May 9, 2021. Will remember for ages! May 15, 2021
San Jose, CA
Lower Hutt, NZ
Atlanta, GA
Climbing this slab was not fun. We started up a thin flake to a mossy water groove about 25’ up. The crux was a sketchy sloping mantle on crumbling/chossy slab. Then about 30’ of runout mossy/crumbling slab til you reach a thin traversing trail. 20’ more of steeper slab directly up to the tree that marks the beginning of Munginella to set an anchor. Best guess is that this goes at 5.7-5.8 Pg-13/R
Any info on 1) a name of the route, 2) the FA, or 3) a guidebook that might have info would be greatly appreciated! It’s Yosemite so I’m not delusional enough to believe I was the first to do it. Oct 21, 2021
Ventura, Ca
Sacramento
- It's difficult to protect the traverse to the P1 ledge (hard left into the corner at the 3rd tree as others have mentioned) for the follower. It's really easy climbing following a wide horizontal crack hand over hand, but a follower fall would result in a pretty nasty swing into the corner.
- I thought the moves under/exiting the roof were the clear crux, and maybe hard for 5.6? I think I would have been pretty nervous if I was a 5.8 or below leader
- I didn't think the route was that dirty, some loose dirt on a few holds at the top was all. I've climbed wayyy dirtier (but still highly rated) routes in the valley.
- I looked all over and didn't find a bolted anchor at the top as indicated in the Sloan topo. Or even evidence of a chopped anchor (???). I slung the tree with a bight of my rope and extended myself and the belay back to the edge so I could see my follower. This does make for a slightly longer TR fall for the follower given the anchor stretch, but I didn't see a great alternative. A bolted anchor would be great for keeping wear off the tree/reducing the likelihood of knocking dirt/rocks down the route. Feb 22, 2022
San Diego
San Francisco
Isla Vista, CA
Lakewood, CO
- The crux is finding the route! Having never been to Yosemite before, we were lost for a good while. Here are the GPS coordinates for the ramp to the first belay for pitch 1 of Munginella: 37.748263, -119.597956. See this picture of the dude walking up the ramp to the first pitch: mountainproject.com/photo/1….
- As you start the second pitch, make the hard left into the corner dihedral, instead of getting suckered to the right, or you will find yourself off-route.
- The walk off is also a little tricky to follow, as well, so read the descent information a few times. The anchors for the rappel do exist, but it took us awhile to find them, probably because we got a little lost, ending up on a ledge about 25 feet above the anchors. But don't let the descent scare you... you'll keep a cool head, and find your way down. If you can lead 5.6 trad, this really is a fun route!
Jul 7, 2023